 |
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Nov 20, 2009, 10:57 AM
|
|
What is the use of earth in electricity
Tnx and regards
|
|
 |
Expert
|
|
Nov 20, 2009, 11:16 AM
|
|
Earth (called "ground" in the US, or "earth" elsewhere) is essentially a huge sink for electrons. It's primary roles in elecronics are (a) to provide a constant reference potential, which is important to get ICs and other components in electronics to work together properly, and also to assist in minimizing EMI through the use of shielding between circuits, or (b) for safety considerations, as a way to minimize excessive voltages by carrying away fault currents - for example, grounding the chassis of an appliance ensures that if there is a frayed power wire inside the machine you won't have lethal voltages present on the chassis.
|
|
 |
Electrical & Lighting Expert
|
|
Nov 20, 2009, 11:38 AM
|
|
 Originally Posted by ebaines
, or (b) for safety considerations, as a way to minimize excessive voltages by carrying away fault currents - for example, grounding the chassis of an appliance ensures that if there is a frayed power wire inside the machine you won't have lethal voltages present on the chassis.
This is not accurate.
The reason you will not have voltage present in this example is because the grounding conductor is bonded to the service neutral, not merely connected to a spike in the ground. THIS is why breakers trip. The earth itself has no bearing on this function.
The earth is never supposed to be a path for fault current. Dirt is a very poor conductor, even when wet.
If you have a ground fault to a grounding conductor that is simply "earthed", and not bonded to the service neutral, then all you will do is bring up worms.
|
|
 |
Electrical & Lighting Expert
|
|
Nov 20, 2009, 11:40 AM
|
|
 Originally Posted by manny0124
what is the use of earth in electricity...
tnx and regards
Why not try again and ask your question with some detail?
Is this some sort of homework or test question?
|
|
 |
Expert
|
|
Nov 20, 2009, 12:49 PM
|
|
Stan - I was responing in a general way regarding the use of earth in electronics, not as advice on how to wire the neutral and/or ground in the house, or how they are connected at the electric panel. But the point is still valid - the potential of the appliance chassis is kept essentailly equivalent to ground, to minimize chances for large (and potentially lethal) voltage differences between the chassis and other things in the room (like a water pipe). That's why you have a ground rod.
|
|
 |
Electrical & Lighting Expert
|
|
Nov 20, 2009, 01:46 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by ebaines
Stan - I was responing in a general way regarding the use of earth in electronics, not as advice on how to wire the neutral and/or ground in the house, or how they are connected at the electric panel.
Funny, the question was "what is the use of earth in electricity", not "electronics".
I am sure you are well aware that electricity and electronics are not nearly the same thing.
 Originally Posted by ebaines
But the point is still valid - the potential of the appliance chassis is kept essentailly equivalent to ground, to minimize chances for large (and potentially lethal) voltage differences between the chassis and other things in the room (like a water pipe). That's why you have a ground rod.
Sorry. Still wrong.
The chassis is kept at the same potential as other "grounded" metal parts of the system. This potential ALL stems from the neutral to ground bond at the main service disconnect.
A grounding electrode is just along for the ride in case of lightning or HIGH voltage surges such as from primary utility (as in thousands) voltages.
|
|
 |
Expert
|
|
Nov 20, 2009, 02:46 PM
|
|
I am talking here about potential differences (voltages) and the danger of having metal surfaces at different potentials - not whether there's current flow through the ground rod.
You seem to be saying that all the neutrals of the electrical outlets in the house would be at the same potential as all other metal surfaces even if there was no ground rod connection at the service entrance. But there are many metal surfaces that are not part of the electrical system but that are grounded locally (things like handrails, swing sets, lamp posts). If you did not have a ground rod at your service entrance then you are relying on the utility's neutral to be at the same potential as your local ground, but it's not - you could have significant voltage differences between the hot/neutral of an outlet and these surfaces, which could indeed be dangerous.
|
|
 |
Electrical & Lighting Expert
|
|
Nov 21, 2009, 05:36 AM
|
|
 Originally Posted by ebaines
You seem to be saying that all the neutrals of the electrical outlets in the house would be at the same potential as all other metal surfaces even if there was no ground rod connection at the service entrance.
No. I specifically did not say that. I said: "The chassis is kept at the same potential as other "grounded" metal parts of the system."
 Originally Posted by ebaines
But there are many metal surfaces that are not part of the electrical system but that are grounded locally (things like handrails, swing sets, lamp posts). If you did not have a ground rod at your service entrance then you are relying on the utility's neutral to be at the same potential as your local ground, but it's not - you could have significant voltage differences between the hot/neutral of an outlet and these surfaces, which could indeed be dangerous.
So you are saying that a ground rod stuck in the ground on one side of the house would cause a breaker to trip if a hand rail or swing set out in the yard became energized??
This is completely false. The earth simply does not have enough impedance to carry that current. The earth is a poor conductor. The swing set would HAVE to be bonded to the house's electrical system in order for a breaker to trip.
A lamp post would/should already be bonded so that is a non-issue. The equipment ground run with the circuit to the light bonds the post and fixture. This equipment ground eventually goes back to the main panel. The neutral to ground bond at the main panel IS what would cause a breaker to trip in the case of a fault.
If not for the fear of someone actually trying it I would suggest you test your theory in real time. You could stick a live wire in the ground right near your service's grounding electrode and the breaker would NOT trip.
|
|
Question Tools |
Search this Question |
|
|
Add your answer here.
Check out some similar questions!
No electricity
[ 3 Answers ]
Our bathroom light switches work fine. The electrical outlet next to the switches doesn't seem to have any electrical power. The circuit breakers are correct. This all happened after an extremely close hit of lightning to a palm tree on our property. A few other outlets also stopped working, but...
Electricity
[ 2 Answers ]
1)A 88-V supply is connected to a resistor causing 38 mA of current to flow. What power is being dissipated in the resistor?
2)What is the current through a device that is dissipating 88 W of heat when a 35-V source is applied across it?
3a) Calculate the maximum current a 510 W, 1/2 watt...
Electricity
[ 12 Answers ]
hi, I need better (and simpler) answers..
I need to get rid of this headache (lol)
if there is a relationship between voltage and current
i.e. the formula Voltage = current * resistance
then..
how come people say.. its not the voltage... but the current that kills..
in the same vein.
...
Electricity project
[ 9 Answers ]
Hi I'm trying to make a circuit but instead of having all of the wires straight from the battery to the bulb I want to replace half of one wire and use water to complete the circuit but it doesn't work … I only used 6V
Help ….how many volts should I use?
View more questions
Search
|