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    runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Nov 13, 2009, 05:18 PM
    Bryant Plus 90 398AAW does not start all the time.
    My drafter Inducer come on for about 15 sec and shuts off. Tries again and again. I turned off the power and re-turned it on and it woks fine.:(
    Joshdta's Avatar
    Joshdta Posts: 2,549, Reputation: 45
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    #2

    Nov 13, 2009, 05:21 PM

    Sounds like a lose connection, or maybe a control board or t-stat probem. Jump r to w at the stat and see if the problem persists
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #3

    Nov 14, 2009, 09:09 AM
    If you can post the full product # it will help identify which version of this unit you have. If spark ignition, there is a circuit board behind the pressure switch that controls the inducer. Burned relay contacts will cause what you are observing. If you dismount the pressure switch and darken the area near the furnace as much as possible, you may be able to see "flashing" from within the relay.
    runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Nov 22, 2009, 09:32 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by KC13 View Post
    If you can post the full product # it will help identify which version of this unit you have. If spark ignition, there is a circuit board behind the pressure switch that controls the inducer. Burned relay contacts will cause what you are observing. If you dismount the pressure switch and darken the area near the furnace as much as possible, you may be able to see "flashing" from within the relay.
    The model number is 398AAW036080. I did see the flashing from within the relay behind the pressure switch. Is the fix to just replace that relay, or is there something else causing it? (also, any idea where to get one?)

    Thanks.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #5

    Nov 22, 2009, 12:00 PM
    Was the "flashing" sustained, or just brief at the moment the motor started? If sustained, the relay contacts are worn/burned. Circuit board will require replacement, but I've gotten out of a jam like yours this way: I removed the circuit board from the enclosure and CAREFULLY pried the cover off the relay. Next, I CAREFULLY cleaned the burned contacts with a sliver of fine sandpaper, using care not to bend the contact "fingers". This kept the unit running for a few days until a replacement board was installed. P.S. If you disconnect the wires from the pressure switch, note which one belongs where - the switch terminals are lettered.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #6

    Nov 22, 2009, 12:27 PM
    Here's a pic of the board. The white cube in the center is the relay. Look closely at yours for the cover tabs. A pocket screwdriver usually does the trick to open it.
    Attached Images
     
    runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Nov 22, 2009, 02:06 PM

    Any idea where to get a replacement board?
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #8

    Nov 22, 2009, 04:49 PM
    Google "images", search "313680-751".
    runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Nov 23, 2009, 06:30 AM

    Thank you the Inducer Control board is the problem. I cleaned it up and I'm going to replace it.
    Thanks Again
    Tim
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #10

    Nov 23, 2009, 05:18 PM
    :)
    runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Nov 23, 2009, 06:03 PM

    Help
    I purchased the replacement part (313680-751) and it does not work. Nothing happens when I installed it. Went back to the old board and it works fine.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #12

    Nov 23, 2009, 06:30 PM
    This should be a KIT. Did you follow all instructions? There are some additional steps...
    runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Nov 23, 2009, 06:36 PM

    No instructions came with. I just hooked up the three leads and two pluges to the board. Same as HH84AA008 hook up.
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #14

    Nov 23, 2009, 06:39 PM
    The product# has a four-letter suffix, in addition to the model#. Post suffix if possible.
    runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #15

    Nov 23, 2009, 06:44 PM

    The only number on the board is313680-751
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #16

    Nov 23, 2009, 09:12 PM
    The product# of the furnace. Does original resemble 1st pic, & replacement resemble 2nd pic? I replaced one of these kits today (the 1st pic IS the old one). The kit should also include a lead wire, terminal assortment, wiring diagram label, and instructions. Check these: 1) How many wires connect to limit switch - 2 or 3? 2) Is there an empty space in the multi-plug that connects to inducer control board? If "2" and/or "YES", the new board will not work without remainder of kit installed.
    Attached Images
      
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    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #17

    Nov 23, 2009, 11:02 PM
    This should have come as part of the kit.
    Attached Images
  1. File Type: pdf 58d,s-11si.pdf (109.9 KB, 741 views)
  2. runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #18

    Nov 24, 2009, 10:25 AM

    My old part and the new is just like your picture. 3 wires on both. Do I have to use the kit or should it work as is?
    runwest50's Avatar
    runwest50 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #19

    Nov 24, 2009, 11:07 AM
    The product # is 398AAW036080AFJA
    KC13's Avatar
    KC13 Posts: 2,556, Reputation: 99
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    #20

    Nov 24, 2009, 01:14 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KC13 View Post
    This should have come as part of the kit.
    Does step D apply to your furnace?
    Attached Images
  3. File Type: pdf 58d,s-11si.pdf (109.9 KB, 915 views)

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