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ptm69 · Oct 9, 2009, 01:44 PM

I have a murray riding lawn mower: Model: 282H07; Type: 0196E1. I cannot get this thig to start with the key. I have to jump the solenoid to start it. I have changed all the switches and the ignition. When I do jump the solenoid to start it, it runs around 5 seconds and dies. Almost like you were to turn the PTO on while your ignition switch was not in the reverse mode. I have a volt meter and have checked my wiring to an extent. I am not an electrician and might have missed something obvious. If I had enough hair I would pull it out. I am mechanically inclined and at my wits end. If there is someone that can help me I would greatly appreciate it. The mower is only 4 years old and has been stored out of the weather.

crigby · Oct 9, 2009, 04:28 PM

Hi,
Sounds to me as if your wiring harness is not energized - no vltage to switch. How about the fuse?
Peace,
Clarke
PS If you give the mower model number, I may have a schematic.

ptm69 · Oct 10, 2009, 04:37 AM

425014x92, Does the clutch/brake have some kind of internal switch because when the mower was running the brake felt like it could use some asjusting. Just like a car feels when the pads are worn. And just to answer in case you are wondering, the battery is good.

ptm69 · Oct 10, 2009, 04:40 AM

Oh, and yes, the fuse is good. I have done a continuity check on all the wires in the wiring harness.

crigby · Oct 10, 2009, 07:05 AM

Hi,
Okay, how about the wire with the fuse in it? Is it connected to the same side of the solenoid as the battery? That is what powers up the harness. Schematic attached.
Peace,
Clarke
PS Brake is adjustable by tightening nut on right side of transaxle.

ptm69 · Oct 10, 2009, 09:38 AM

Sure enough. I hooked the fuse to the starter side of the solenoid and not the battery side. But now that I did the carb kit I can't seem to get the governor to Idle down. Almost like the governor has been thrown internally. It ran fine berfore I had these problems. Please tell me that I might have done something with the carb. I don't want to have to tear my mower engine apart to have to try to fix the governor. I tried that once and had no success. The choke flap(spring)I replaced when I did the carb kit. It feels like the other brass flap is hanging up on something. It's tight for some reason. Do you think it might be hanging up on the gasket? Please help. I'm almost there.

crigby · Oct 10, 2009, 09:55 AM

Hi,
Sometimes the link can be not quite installed completely and will wedge when carb is tightened. First I would just loosen carb and try wiggling the link to make sure that is free.
Also, what did you loosen/take off when removing the carb? If you lossened the pinch bolt on the governor arm, please advise and I will tell you the adjustment procedure.
Peace,
Clarke

ptm69 · Oct 10, 2009, 10:13 AM

I did not take off the governor arm, only the link. Also that link has a small long sping that is wrapped around it. Both hook to the carb front flap. The bar in one hole and the sping in another hole right nest to it. I just removed the housing and there is definitely some tighness when I manually rotate it toward the idle adjustment screw. The only other sping attached to the governor arm is just above the pinch bolt (as you call it) to the linkage that goes to my speed control. There another hole on the arm but it doesn't look like there was a sping attached there. I hope I did not loose it. As for removing the carb, I disconnected the choke linkage and the governor linkage and the black hose that goes to the crank case(I think). Disconnected the after fire solenoid and the two bolts that connect it to the intake. I have two hard plastic black tubes that connect to each side of the carb. One goes to the air cleaner and the one on the other side goes to the intake. I removed both of them from each side of the carb and installed the carb kit. Then I put it all back together.

crigby · Oct 10, 2009, 10:39 AM

Hi,
It sounds pretty much correct. That long thin spring that has the link (rod) through it is there to remove "lash" that would allow the engine to "hunt" because the tolerances required to easily connect and disconnect the linkages. They should have a bit of play against each other that would allow a small amount of movement in one before the other moves.
Something must be bound. The governor is very reliable on its on and would not fail for the reason stated, and should be out of adjustment if the pinch bolt was never loosened. I have seen the governor arm bent outward causing problems at times in this scenario.
Peace,
Clarke

ptm69 · Oct 10, 2009, 10:45 AM

I got it. The two little scews that hold the flap nearest the intake I loosed and let the flap slide down just enough to free it up. I retighted them and put the carb back on and it works fine. I'm going to mow the whole neighborhood now. I had went and bought a new push mower to get me through my troubled times. Now I have the best of both worlds. Thank you very much for your insight. It's always best to get an opinion from outside the box. The solenoid thing was so obvious I overlooked it. I Bought a bunch of stuff for nothing and did a whole lot of work because of it. I owe you. Thanks.