[Stratmando]

I usually use a Time clock for this, but the inwall Timer was preferable, With both in series it allows lights to go on when Dark, no matter what the time of year/daylight savings, and have the timeclock set for 3:00 or any time that is for sure light out, and have the timer turn light off at midnight, here is the Timer:

http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/fi...20english.ashx

Here is the Photocell:
Plug-In Locking Type & Swivel Mount - Relay Type | Intermatic, Inc.

Problem is the timer has no neutral, so when it is light out(Photocell open) it doesn't allow the return leg for timer operation, Was wondering if anyone dealt with this before and know of a resistor/bulb that could place enough return for the timer to operate, but not enough for photocell to operate, it needs to operate when timer is on?

[KISS]

It says no, but all I can say to do is do this:

1. Measure the current the timer pulls when off. Add about 20 mA and 10 to 20%. Measure the voltage drop across the timer. Should be nearly 120 V.

2. Find R = 120/I; the 120 and the I computed above
Find W

3. Get try a resistor of the proper value. If it works replace with a metal oxide resistor from Digikey. They will melt and act as a fuse. Write the resitor value on the photocell that you used.

The second thing that you might be able to try is to do a double duty type of thing. Not sure what your wiring is like, but use the time to turn on a 120 V input Triac brick and then use the photocell to turn on the light.

Any idea for the wattage of the lights. Could you spare room for a 120 V triac brick such as this one. Digi-Key - PB706-ND (Manufacturer - SSRT-240A10)

You might have to add a resistor to provide a minimum load for the timer.

So, Wall timer controls SSR with minimum load and the output side of the SSR is in series with the photocell.

The second version should work.

[KISS]

What did you think of my answer?

[Stratmando]

First, thanks for your Condolences.
I think they could both work.
The timer must have a Triac, as you can push the button to toggle ON/Off, then activate the photocell(cover)to turn On the lights, once you remove the cover on photocell, light goes out, and will not turn on by photocell, due to the load removed, timer opens up.
I will look back and see if it has a minimum wattage load for accurate operation of timer.
The people won't be back for 2 weeks, so I have time to experiment. I do have a couple of things to deal with, thanks again,
Take Care.

[KISS]

Use one of these across the input to the SSR. Digi-Key - TMC10-2.5K-ND (Manufacturer - TMC10-2.5K)

That will take care of the timer power.

Then take the output of the SSR and put it in series with the photocell.

As long as you have room to mount the resistor and the SSR outside, you'll be fine, I think.

[Stratmando]

How about just having the resistor between load and neutral?
Existing wiring is power in and out of timer, into photocell black and red to the 3 lights(40-60 Watts)
Were you thinking I need the relay Module for a Large Load? If not, how would wiring be done from timer?

[KISS]

I just wanted a 120V input 120-240 V switch and that's what I could find quickly is a 10 A version. If you we can find one smaller all the better.

No, the timer switches the SSR and you put a minimum load >4W (Power drawn by timer) on the input of the SSR. So, the timer is doing nothing but turning on the SSR and a 2.5K resistor (> 4W) of the ower needed by the timer. This satisfis the timer.

Now, you have to satisfy the photocell. So, put the photocell in series with the output of the SSR and that becomes the switch to the lamps.

It will work.

An I^2t fuse and fuseholder would add reliability, but at a large cost. The 10 A SSR unit would also add to reliability when switching 180 Watts.

Do I have to try to draw a diagram?