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justincaseme · Sep 2, 2009, 11:22 AM

I've looked through the threads on this subject and found the answers confusing.

What's the proper way to ground my roof TV antenna and mast? According to this HDTV primer site, I need to attach the antenna to BOTH my main panel and a ground rod. This seems redundant.

Antenna Primer

(1) Since my main panel is already connected to two grounding rods, can I just run a copper wire from my antenna to my neutral/grounding bus bar? Is an additional grounding rod really necessary?
(2) The Antenna is several years old and weathered. How should I attach the ground wire to its surface to ensure good contact?
(3) The Antenna Primer says to run my antenna coax through a ground block, and then to run that to the independent ground rod. Again, can I just connect the grounding block to the neutral/grounding bus in my main panel?
(4) In addition to the Antenna, my cable company has a coax line coming into the house from the telephone pole (internet access). The installer did not attach the ground wire that runs with the coax. Should I simply add a grounding block, and then run another wire from this second grounding block to my panel's neutral/grounding bus? Or is more required?
(5) If it turns out that connecting my Antenna and grounding blocks to the main panel is wrong, can I instead connect them to the same ground rod that my Main Panel is already linked with? The rod tops are exposed slightly above grade so I still have access to them.

* Note that my Antenna is on the same side of the house as the Electrical Service Entrance and Panel. They are about 10 feet apart. I could run a copper cable from the antenna, into the attic, and then down into the panel. I estimate a 30 foot run.
* I have full access to the panel from inside the house as no drywall is up.

Thanks in advance.

justincaseme · Sep 4, 2009, 10:12 AM

It's said there are no stupid questions. With no replies still, perhaps this is the exception.. Anybody?

tkrussell · Sep 4, 2009, 01:16 PM

Not a stupid question, just volunteers that need to do some research sometimes for certain topics.

Use a Intersystem Bonding Termination device, see:

http://www.erico.com/public/library/fep/LT1476.pdf

Tie all phone, CATV, and roof antenna, to it, the nearest grounds rod using a min #6 copper. Use min #10 copper from the antenna to this device. Run in straight line as possible, avoid hard bends.

Do not connect to the neutral/ground bar of a panel.

Sand or file the mast till you get clean metal, and use an appropriate sheetmetal, or better a nut and bolt with a wire lug.

You must use the ground block for the CATV.

IF another rod is added, not needed here, it must be connected to the other rods using #6 copper.

KISS · Sep 4, 2009, 02:02 PM

These guys have clamps and braid. Here is a clamp: Band Clamp with Stud, 1.125 in OD tube, pkg. of 2

justincaseme · Sep 9, 2009, 01:11 PM

Originally Posted by tkrussell

IF another rod is added, not needed here, it must be connected to the other rods using #6 copper.

I think I see what you mean. I was confused by the diagram in the "Antenna Primer". It shows the main panel connecting to the antenna's new grounding rod. In their example, I supposed they make such a connection in order to tie the new antenna grounding rod into the existing system. Their main panel's rod is buried and is so far removed from the antenna that it's not practical to attach the new rod directly to the old one. In my case, the panel, rods, and antenna are all in the same local area.

As a followup question, do you guys think it's safe to pass the antenna's new grounding wire through the roof, across the attic, down and out the wall, to the Intersystem Bonding Termination block? From there, I'd like to run the ground line from the Termination block back into the wall, then, near ground level, pop it out of the wall again to connect to the grounding rod. I'd like to hide the wires to make the installation look clean. Is it mistake to take the grounding wires back inside the house though? I've heard that routing a surge back through a house is risky, and that's why sub-panels in detached garages, for example, have a grounding rod separate from the main panel's.

hkstroud · Sep 9, 2009, 01:50 PM

I wouldn't do that. If it is ever used it will be because the antenna got hit by lightning. Wouldn't want no lightening bolts going through my attic or walls. Beside that, you would probably create a roof leak going through the roof. Stay outside using the proper stand offs to keep ground wire away from house.

justincaseme · Sep 9, 2009, 02:00 PM

Originally Posted by hkstroud

I wouldn't do that. If it is ever used it will be because the antenna got hit by lightning. Would want no lightening bolts going through my attic or walls. Beside that, you would probably create a roof leak going through the roof.

Hmm.. hk, what you're saying makes sense, but imagine this is NEW construction. I have the drywall down and full access to everything. How would this be done in new construction, assuming the antenna was mounted towards the center of the roof? The antenna is mounted on a thick galvanized sewer vent pipe. The roof is Hip style all the way around. If I don't run the ground wire down into the roof itself, I'll have to jump it off the eave, around the rain gutter, under the eave, and down the wall. What approach would they take in new construction?

hkstroud · Sep 9, 2009, 02:09 PM

OK, that's what you got to do if you want to install a ground wire.

BUT:
If you are mounted on a galvanized sewer pipe you are already grounded. Assuming that the pipe is continuous to the ground. Why bother.

KISS · Sep 9, 2009, 06:18 PM

What I have seen done with the power in, is the pipe is attached to the wall and goes through the overhang with the weatherhead at the top. You use a typical vent roof boot for the roof penetration. Not sure what's used under the eve.

You may be able to something similar using PVC conduit.