[chriss1069]

I have a 96 Accord 4 cyl automatic that will not start. It died on my wife while at the store. I met her there and checked the battery, which was only putting out 12V. When I tried to start it, the lights came on etc.. but the starter only made a clicking sound, just like a classic case of a dead battery, so replaced it with new one. But, I could only try to start the car once. The second time I tried there were no lights that came on etc.. and no response at all. I was not able to try to restart it again. I was then able to jump start it and get it home.

I connected a jumper from the battery to the small ignition terminal on the starter solenoid, but the solenoid only clicked. I could also only do this once. In order to try and start it again, I had to remove the negative battery cable, then place it back on. It seemed like I was resetting the circuit when I would do this. Thinking the starter/solenoid was bad, I replaced it with a new one. Once installed, I got the same results with both trying to start with the key, and jumping the solenoid from the battery. Each time again having to remove and replace the negative battery cable (reset?). I sprayed terminal cleaner on all the terminals and made sure I have good connections. I found the starter cut relay under the dash stereo area and checked the wire for voltage. I was not able to get any. I also checked the fuses and they all appear to be good.

What really puzzles me is that I cannot jump the starter with a wire from the positive terminal to the small ignition terminal (small slip on connector) on the starter solenoid. This is the process as described in the Haynes Manual, and the same I have read on several sites. Do I need to jump the solenoid large terminal (large connector w/nut) instead. This process should bypass all of the ignition components right? The engine is not seized, as I was able to jump it and drive it home from the store when it initially died.

Bottom line is, there is a new battery and starter/solenoid, and I still get the same results... click then dead until I remove and replace the negative battery terminal. I am really puzzled here, and at a dead end. I think I will replace the starter cut relay. The ignition is fine. I really don't want to put much more money in this thing. Please, Please, Please HELP!! :confused:

Thanks!

[chriss1069]

Also, I tested the ground to the car itself, and it is good and strong with over 13V showing on the meter.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multi-meter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

My gut is that there's a problem with the ignition switch, especially since you did not have power to the starter cut relay. The flow is + battery, under hood fuse/relay box, ignition switch, starter cut relay, solenoid. Obviously, the clutch needs to be depressed for the clutch interlock switch to pass current. Removing and reattaching the negative battery cable may be effectively by-passing the clutch interlock switch.

. Check/replace the starter cut relay. These are very reliable and seldom, if ever, need replacing.

. Read the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235560

[chriss1069]

Just for kicks I connected a jumper cable to the negative battery terminal and the other end toe the engine block... and it started right up... seems like a have a bad ground or battery cable... off the parts store again. Thanks for all the help!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Thanks for the update! Glad you solved the problem. You have excellent problem-solving skills. After you clean all connections, apply dielectric grease.

[edosan65]

I had the same problem with my 1996 Honda Accord EX (Manual Trans). I went straight for the starter... replaced with a reman. And the starter was still not cranking the engine. I was just getting a clicking. I pushed started my car an once it was running I decided to do a "no no" for just a split second... I turned the ignition sw to "start pos" and heard the grinding of the starter to the flywheel. This told me that the problem lies somewhere with the wires from the battery to the starter or missing/broken teeth on flywheel or the batt itself. Since the batt and batt cables were new I decided to removed the starter once more and inspected the teeth on the flywheel and they checked out fine. So I then wiped down the battery terminal and starter terminal connections and re-installed the new starter. The car started! No problems since. Therefore I either had a bad connection or the problem fixed itself. I new it was not the Starter Cut-off Relay because if you turn the ignition to start and cycle the clutch through you could hear the click every time you press and release the clutch. Again try to see if the starter will engage when the engine is running... make sure you press the clutch also (Only for a Split Second!) if it does... and you will know it (a loud grinding sound) then that means all circuits a operating and the problem is with the battery or cables/terminals. Reason: By with the car running you have isolated the battery system and the altenator was able to engage the starter!

[Uy3]

Hi everyone,
I got simlar issue: is ben happening for the past year or less (once every month, then, every other week and more frecuent. Now is almost every day).
It might start fine before/after work, but if I had to make a stop, probably won't start right away:
I turned the switch; pannel goes on; I heard a click around (I beleive) main ECU relay, pannel fade out as usual, but no crank at all.
If I wait patienly for about 30 min, it goes on after a few tries, but I' afraid the tome for ""no show at all" is coming.
How to pin point the cycle and find the origin w/o replacing parts one by one?
"battery (OK), under hood fuse/relay box (OK), ignition switch (? ), starter cut relay (I HEARD CLICKING), solenoid (? )
By any chance, it could be temperature issues?
TThanks for the help