[Wayfarersun]

I ordered an AOSmith OCC1026 and they sent me OCC1026A. Specs seem the same, except the end without axle has open slots unlike old motor which was a solid plate. Is this a problem? I have a rain shield for the top and the motor would sit vertical. I thought I read somewhere that the occ1026a is for a hiorizontal application.

I have two heat pump units. Each have three wires and no ground it appears. One pump has black, brown and yellow wires and the other (the one that needs the new fan motor) a black, and two yellow wires.

1) The old motor has a connector on the case and wires ran from the control box through an enclosed channel down the outside and under pump, up through bottom of the case and wires plugged into the connector on the motor. The new motor has brown, black and yellow wires and a green ground. But the wires come out from the motor case and the ends have female connectors that would need to connect. I presume, at the control box but the wires are prob too short and there seems no way to get access into the channel that runs under and up the side of the unit to the box. I figure I will need to splice the new motor wires to the ones coming up through the case.

I purhase a replacement dual run capacitor to replace the existing one but I also bought a separate 5uf 370v capacitor for just the motor since it was only 3 bucks just in case it was easier to use that instead.

So what do you suggest is the best way to wire this motor and is the splicing safe if I use the screw caps and insulating tape? Or can I purchase some type of intermediate connector to join the female ends of all the wires? How do I water proof the connections as I'm sure in winter and rain there will be plenty of moisture blowing up through the unit. I can test the continuity of each wire that runs from the box to the old motor to see what terminals on the capacitor or contactor are used. Since the new motor has the same colors as my other heat pump can I wire them identically?

The wiring diag on the new motor shows the top horizontal line as brown connected to a vertical line for the "sep. cap". The sep cap line is connected below to a yellow horizontal line. Below the yellow horizontal line is the black horizontal line. Between the yellow and black is a vertical line with an arrow on each end pointing to the yellow and black lines and the word "line" inserted into the vertical line.

Is there a preferred place on the case to attach the ground or do I not use it as in the old motor.

I have carrier heat pumps, the round ones mfg'd 1984. Model # 38QN024300.

2) Also the other unit has water dripping from the area of heat exchanger above the furnace and puddling on the floor. The condensate pump is working so I 'm afraid it's freezing up. Does that mean low freon and therefor a leak? Should I get the feon level checked and recharged if low and how long till the next freezing episode since I would assume I have a leak. System has never been recharged in 25 years. So maybe it can hold for a while?

Is it time for replacements?
.
Thanks

[KISS]

Lots of questions, Yipes!

The AOSmith motor is located here: Drawing type: OUTLINEStock number:

I have no idea what the A is for. Don't think it matters if open with a rain guard. Make sure that the motor rotates in the correct direction. You might want to test that with a temporary connection.

LINE or 240 V is between Yellow and Black
The capacitor is wired from yellow to brown

So, one of those motor wires will go to one side of power and the capacitor. LINE is polarity insensitive.

Grounds are always nice to use. Both for noise suppression and insulation failure. Best to ground to something solid and not a plate that's attached to plastic inserts.

Forget wirenuts and tape when things vibrate a lot.

I'd probably use a (DIN terminal strip with a wire protector). If I didn't have a wire protector in the strip I'd use a wire ferrule. Radio Shack sells DIN terminal strips with out the wire protector. The wire protector is a flat piece of metal. The stranded lead is then wedged between the terminal, the flat strip and the screw and thus it's suitable for stranded wire connections. Tinning the wire (A little bit of solder) is also possible.

Tape is a bad word. The problem is you won't find the right tape unless you go to an electrical supply house. A good self-fusing silicone electrical tapes works great, but it might set you back $30 for a roll. That tape you can use to insulate the connections.

2) The drain line is likely plugged or the pan under the coil has a hole in it. Make sure the pump pumps water and not just makes noise.

Solder and heat shrink is also OK. Notice I said OK. Adhesive heat shrink would be best. The next guy to work on the unit won't like you.

Solder and the fancy tape is OK. Remember to remove the flux after you solder. Carb cleaner on a rag will work well.

Remember to use a drip loop. I know, what the heck is that? Make sure the wire makes a dip before entering the motor, so that water that flows along the wire drips off rather than flows right into the motor.

[Wayfarersun]

How about if I solder the ends an cover with an RTV silicone sealant. That shoulnt cost much but I will check the other options out that you mentioned.

[Wayfarersun]

Well I spliced the three wires using wire nuts (or caps - whatever they are called) from the new motor to the wires that ran from the control box up into unit. I went like color to like color according to the original motor colors I will fill and coat the wire nuts with liquid tape that I bought from Home Depot at $6.95, The self sealing/waterproof roll of silicone tape was same price. Motor runs fine.

The wires will hang below the fan motor pretty much as they did under the original motor setup. I think they are wired for a pretty high temp so I don't think any heat generated by the compressor will be a problem.

I'll look for a safe place to drill a hole for the ground wire and I will secure all the loose wires to a safe area in the unit so that are not moving or vibrating too much.

The water leak inside turned out to be the drain valve of my water heater, though I managed to get at my heat pump exchanger anyway. I cleaned the drip tray of debris which was mostly deteriorated insulation. Where does this insulation come from? The underside of the exchanger has remnants of insulation against the fins.

Question: Did the heat pump air exchanger originally come with insulation on the underside of the exchanger unit/fins? (the side that gets hit first by the air flow) The exchanger sits over the furnace heat exchanger tubes and I think one side of furnace sheet metal casing below had insulation to protect from heat from the heater box and the foil on that insulation deteriorated. So I am not sure of the source of the insulation against the heat pump exchange unit. Was it originally there or did it get blown into the heat pump exchanger from elsewhere in the system? If it did then I assume I should clear away any insulation that is stuck/trapped on the heap pump exchanger unit.