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smith_r_d · Jul 18, 2009, 07:28 AM

I want to make a home made well pump system.
My house is currently one city water; I have a well under my house that is safe.

Can I use an old water heater that is good shape except for it won't heat water?

How can I convert this into a Pressure Tank?

speedball1 · Jul 18, 2009, 07:49 AM

Can I use an old water heater that is good shape except for it won't heat water?
How can I convert this into a Pressure Tank?

I don't see any reason why not! Remove the boiler drain and that will be your inlet. Remove the T&P relief valve and the fittings on the inlet and outlet. You can plug the holes with 3/4" galvanized plugs or install a pressure gage om the cold water side and a snifter valve, to recharge the tank, on the hot water inlet if you wish. Your option. Good luck, Tom

jlisenbe · Jul 18, 2009, 10:02 AM

Make sure you install a pressure-relief valve on the system. This is in case the switch sticks and the pump continues to run, thus building up pressure.

Also, bear in mind that you will have to recharge the tank with air every month or two. The easy way is to simply drain the tank through a low-level faucet with the power off. That allows the tank to fill with air. Then turn the system back on.

This site is filled with information you will find useful.

Single Line Jet Pumps & Water Wells, Explanation & Repair Advice

speedball1 · Jul 18, 2009, 12:22 PM

Make sure you install a pressure-relief valve on the system. This is in case the switch sticks and the pump continues to run, thus building up pressure.

This confuses me a bit. We don't install a PRV valve on our new pump installations.
What makes this one different? Just curious. Tom

jlisenbe · Jul 18, 2009, 01:36 PM

My understanding is that PRV valves are needed on well systems for the same reason you want one on a water heater. A submerged pump, with a stuck switch, is capable of running some fairly high pressures, at the very least damaging the pump. I wouldn't think a person would want to leave it off, but as I have stated many times on this site, I am not a well pro. Others might have a different view.

However, this quote from the New York site says it well: "Early in our building inspection career plumbers in our area were skeptical when we identified the absence of a pressure relief valve as a safety concern (and a building or plumbing code violation). Then in about 1984 a local plumber was killed by a bursting water pressure tank.

The water pump was a submersible unit located (remotely) inside of the water well. The plumber was leaning over the water tank repairing a fitting, unaware that the water pump had turned on, and unaware that the pressure control switch had been damaged or modified so that it failed to turn off the water pump at a safe pressure.

The water tank burst, metal fragments severely injured the plumber who, working alone, bled to death. After that terrible event all of our local plumbers took this relief valve requirement seriously."

http://www.inspect-ny.com/water/WPControlsa.htm

speedball1 · Jul 18, 2009, 01:41 PM

Thanks for the update. I've never seen one installed om our sprinkler systems and that's about all we have in my area. Regards, Tom

jlisenbe · Jul 18, 2009, 01:55 PM

Do the sprinklers use pressure tanks? I'm not familiar with them as most wells around here (Mississippi) are for residential use. I would guess that a sprinkler system on a timer might could do without the tank. Just a guess.

Now that you've brought it up, I am wondering how much pressure a submerged pump could generate. Anyone know?

speedball1 · Jul 18, 2009, 02:47 PM

Our sprinkler systems use bladder tanks. I wasn't aware a pump could blow up a pressure tank. I thought that's why they were called "pressure tanks". Because they held pressure. I guess I was mistaken. Regards, tom

jlisenbe · Jul 18, 2009, 03:54 PM

The ones I have seen are rated as to 100# max pressure or something like that.

speedball1 · Jul 18, 2009, 04:01 PM

Originally Posted by jlisenbe

The ones I have seen are rated as to 100# max pressure or something like that.

I went into Google to check. 00 PSI is the max operating pressure but I could pull up nothing on the PSI needed to burst a tank. I find it very hard to believe t6hat a residential pump could pump up enough pressure to burst a galvanized pressure tank. There's just got to be another factor we're not aware of. Yf it were that dangerous you would think plumbing codes would namdate a PRV valve and I don't see it addressed anywhere in my code book. Perhaps Lee or Milo has something In the UPC that addresses this. Regards, Tom

smith_r_d · Jul 19, 2009, 09:03 PM

Maybe the Tank had damage; maybe a weak point also before it blew also. Under normal conditions it would have never happened but being a weak tank it happened. Any how I'll put one on just to cover the bases.

I thank you guys for your time. I look forward to reading on your suggestions to other people. You have helped me out a lot.

Looking at everything I need and already have this should be a simple conversation. Around $100 for the 4 components I don't have and the piping.

Again thank you a lot. This will save my family a lot of money.

jlisenbe · Jul 20, 2009, 04:56 AM

Smith, just remember that you will have to recharge the air in the tank every couple of months.