[pperodin]

I have a threaded copper pipe thatcomes out from the wall (tub spout) that I can't remove. I cut the wall open and using a monkey wrench first then a plumbing wrench tried to unscrew the pipe from the shower unit. I have gotten it turn a few times but it won't budge much. Now the end is stripped and I am not able to turn it anymore.

Any suggestions on removing the pipe now?

[hkstroud]

That is most assurdly a solder joint. You have probably ruin the pipe by now. Show us a picture.

[massplumber2008]

Yeah...

Harold is correct (usually is... ;)).

If you have a threaded fitting soldered onto the end of the copper pipe then it surely is a soldered joint behind the wall... :(

You will need to open the wall and fix this.

MARK

[ballengerb1]

Want to hear a 3rd guy say it?

[KISS]

Twist too much and the pipes turn into pretzels (non-edible))

[pperodin]

Yeah...

Harold is correct (usually is...;)).

If you have a threaded fitting soldered onto the end of the copper pipe then it surely is a soldered joint behind the wall....:(

You will need to open the wall and fix this.

MARK

Thank you. THe wall is already open so I guess that's the good news. Bot how do I get that stripped pipe off the shower piping? Sorry about the awful pict

[KISS]

Yikes!

Cut the bottom pipe.

Use a close quarters tubing cutter and cut the top pipe cleanly.

I'd get a pipe hanger, the ones with a flange, allthread and hanger and move to away from the stud a bit. Might need a pair.

Clean what you can of the visible threads with a wire brush.

Get a small pipe wrench to grip the mangled threads.

Heat and use Elbow grease and pull in the correct direction.


What you needed to remove the fitting is a flare nut wrench and probably some heat. That wrench grips nearly all the sides of the nut.

SK Flare Nut Wrenches and Sets

You could have cut shallow and used a deep 6-point socket to remove with heat.

[pperodin]

Yikes!

Cut the bottom pipe.

Use a close quarters tubing cutter and cut the top pipe cleanly.

I'd get a pipe hanger, the ones with a flange, allthread and hanger and move to away from the stud a bit. Might need a pair.

Clean what you can of the visible threads with a wire brush.

Get a small pipe wrench to grip the mangled threads.

Heat and use Elbow grease and pull in the correct direction.


What you needed to remove the fitting is a flare nut wrench and probably some heat. That wrench grips nearly all the sides of the nut.

SK Flare Nut Wrenches and Sets

You could have cut shallow and used a deep 6-point socket to remove with heat.

Well since I was going to replace the shower piping anyway, I just want to get the T shaped piping away from the pipe that goes to the shower head cleanly at this point... with the shower head piping the only part I really need to save at this point... flare nut wrench and heat the best way to do that?

[KISS]

I see a cross and not a "T". I assume your going to replace the fixture, then?

A close quarter tubing cutter looks like: Close Quarters Tubing Cutters - RIDGID Professional Tools

That will allow you to cut the verticle pipe to the shower cleanly. To re-connect something else, use a repair coupling. It connects two pieces of copper pipe, but does not have stops and you solder the fitting.

More importantly is how to deal with the PEX tubing. Those fittings are not going to be re-useable either and they need to be crimped. You may have to rent a tool and get the proper fittings o do that.

I'm not sure you have shut offs either, so maybe an access panel and shutoffs is in order.

Pipe doesn't come apart anywhere. Usually it starts someplace and ends some place . Unions allow one to remove sections of pipe and are used to connect hard plumbed devices.

[pperodin]

I see a cross and not a "T". I assume your going to replace the fixture, then?

A close quarter tubing cutter looks like: Close Quarters Tubing Cutters - RIDGID Professional Tools

That will allow you to cut the verticle pipe to the shower cleanly. To re-connect something else, use a repair coupling. It connects two pieces of copper pipe, but does not have stops and you solder the fitting.

More importantly is how to deal with the PEX tubing. Those fittings are not going to be re-useable either and they need to be crimped. You may have to rent a tool and get the proper fittings o do that.

I'm not sure you have shut offs either, so maybe an access panel and shutoffs is in order.

Pipe doesn't come apart anywhere. Usually it starts someplace and ends some place . Unions allow one to remove sections of pipe and are used to connect hard plumbed devices.

OK, thanks that is a huge help. Appreciate your time.

[hkstroud]

I don't see a cross or a T, I see a tub and shower valve. As KISS said cut the shower riser with a minnie tubing cutter (or hacksaw). Minnie cutter probably about $10. When installing new valve you can re-connect with short piece of copper and repair coupling (or PEX) In case you are wondering what happened, someone carelessly let solder get into the threaded fitting when soldering the tub spout. Not your fault.

[ballengerb1]

Can you identify the type of material in those gray supply pipes? Looks a bit like this doesn't it Polybutylene Plumbing - What is Polybutylene? If you got poly you got troubles.

[KISS]

BB:

Maybe your right.

[pperodin]

Can you identify the type of material in those gray supply pipes? Looks a bit like this doesn't it Polybutylene Plumbing - What is Polybutylene? If you got poly you got troubles.

Yes, they are polybutylene and yes, I have already had troubles!! The class action suit expired so I have to get the whole house redone. Have already had to make a repair or two and I am certain there are more to come. Thanks for the heads up though

[Milo Dolezal]

Cut it short. Take as big channel locks with good, sharp teeth - grab it as hard as you can right below where copper enters brass body - and break the seal. Once it moves a bit, you will be able to unscrew it by hand.

[massplumber2008]

One greenie owed to Bob! Great catch here... I've not seen this gray poly. Before. Thanks!