[Dawtcalm]

Hello, I read a post on here from a member that goes by bljack and it was a great comment. Yesterday I had a handy man quote me on laying porcelain tile and he told me that the best method was to use metal lath with thinset. However another contractor told me that they would use concrete board first then lay the tiles.

I was confused as to which method was best. I currently have hardwood in the kitchen and my dogs are ruining it. So we want to install tile. We plant remove the hardwood and I believe under it will be plywood. So I really want to know the best method to prepare and then lay the porcelain tile that we have chosen.

Also, we do have marble in the entry way and through the hallway. This marble is completely different from the porcelain tile we have chosen and I am wondering if there is a good way to butt the two together with a transition strip or should I lever any of the hardwood to separate the two floors?

Thanks for your comments

[ballengerb1]

Both methods will work as well as Hardieboard. However, you must confirm the type of sub floor and thickness before selecting the product. Hardieboard comes in different thicknesses and 1/4" may not be stiff enough. I'd check to see if you have a 3/4" ply base and then come back here. Bljack will pick this up and give you more info. If need be you can send him a personal message by clicking on his name from a previous post. A PM will be one of the options after clciking.

[Bljack]

Both methods won't work, lath and thinset is a method that has failed every time it's been submitted for testing as an installation method to be considered for inclusion in the TCNA handbook. Furthermore, if the floor isn't stiff enough for 1/4" hardi, it's not stiff enough for any tile installation. If the floor does not meet the standards for strength before a tile underlayment is installed, it won't meet it after either.

Dawtcalm, I will request the same of you...please lose the telephone number of the person who wanted to use the lath and thinset method and request that the phone company providing your service blocks their number from reaching you.

Cement boards do not strengthen floors, they only provide a bonding surface for the tile while providing some limited isolation from the seasonal movement of the building as it adjusts to changes in temperature and humidity. Kitchens are about the highest traffic areas to receive tile and whenever possible it is always better to add plywood for strength, then the tile underlayment of choice. Adding the plywood isn't always a viable option though as it could quickly cause the dishwasher to be trapped forever. Any 1/4" cement board set into a bed of thinset and screwed down would be the minimum. Better would be either Noble CIS which is only 1/16" thick installed and best would be Ditra which is only 1/8" thick installed. Even better would be either of those two sheet membranes installed after the installation of an underlayment layer of 3/8" bc plywood (there are no 1/4" plywoods that are allowable under a ceramic installation). That combo of plywood and membrane would come in at the same thickness or less than the installation of any 1/2" cement board and be significantly more rigid.

Transitions,

If the marble stops at the door and does not go through it, a piece of 1x6 oak, ripped to the width of the door way, then run through a table saw standing upright to give it a bevel extending from mid point to the edge (only a 10 or 15 degree slope), with the angle of the bevel matching the height of each floor will hide any difference in height between the two floors. Stain and poly it to match you kitchen cabs, furniture, woodwork, whatever.

Take the floor tile you are using and cut it into small rectangles, 4.5x 2 or 4.5 x6 or both, using one size through the doorway like a row of standing bricks or alternating them using both, or take your kitchen tile, break a bunch, lay them face down, put 2 pieces of self adhesive mush tape across the back, side by side, then skim the back with thinset. Allow it to set overnight, flip it over and cut it with a grinder to the length and width of the door way, and now you have a custom mosaic border to transition between the two tile fields.

Guess you are in New Jersey too? Where about?