[sfjkwaz]

I am installing a bathroom in my basement. I finished the drain rough-in so I have four pipes roughed in for the toilet, shower, lav, and vent. I laid tile around the toilet drain so I can begin installing the toilet after grouting is finished so I started working on the corner shower unit which means I need to frame a wall and find some way to attach treated wood to the cinder block walls.

I am installing a corner shower unit (42" Aqua Glass, Neo Angle). I have a roughed in drain for the shower. One side of the shower enclsoure will go against the cinder block wall, the other will be supported by a wall I need to frame out with treated wood.

I need suggestions on attaching the treated wall base to the cement (It will form Side 1 of the shower enclosure wall. Do I use an adhesive, galvanized nails, TAPCONS, anchors, a combination or something different?

Also, the cinder Block wall is an exterior wall. The basement is very dry. I purchased some Laticrete Watertight which I had planned to apply to the cement walls as a sort of vapor barrier and planned to mount the treated 5/4" X 4" X 8' to the cement wall as support for Side 2 of the shower enclosure. I didin't have enough room to completely frame out the wall.

What is the best method to attach the 5/4" x 4's to the wall. I initailly thiought of using a construction adhesive and Tapcons. The company says the enclosure has to be mounted to a wood frame and they suggest using roofing nails to attach the closure to the joists. I condisered using wall anchors instead of the roofing nails. I am using 5/4" treated because the drain pipe won't allow me enough space for a 2X4. COuld the enclosure be attached directly to the wall?

ANy suggestions would be greatly appreciated..

[massplumber2008]

Hi...

Traditionally, we don't secure the shower stall directly to the block wall for lots of reasons... ;) Mostly because you would not only have to anchor the shower stall to the concrete block but you would also have to adhere the wall board somehow. Never mind that walls usually are not perfectly square and plumb (check with a SQUARE as you build the wall out using the 5/4" studs)

I think the adhesive with the tapcon screws is perfect here. Then you can use the roofing nails as recommended by the manufacturer for the shower and you can screw of the wallboard effortlessly.

Most likely, you need to build the wall out 1/4" above the shower walls to allow for the thickness of the shower flange itself. This will keep the wallboard from bowing out when installing it.

MARK

[hkstroud]

I need suggestions on attaching the treated wall base to the cement (It will form Side 1 of the shower enclosure wall..

What do you mean by "treated wall base"?

planned to mount the treated 5/4" X 4" X 8' to the cement wall as support for Side 2 of the shower enclosure.

What's 5/4" X 4"? I thought you said Side 1 was the cement block wall.

What is the best method to attach the 5/4" x 4's to the wall.

Cut nails would be the cheapest, power hammer would be the fastest. Tapcon, a lot of drilling. I would use construction adhesive between wood and cement block. The type for treated wood.

The company says the enclosure has to be mounted to a wood frame and they suggest using roofing nails to attach the closure to the joists. I condisered using wall anchors instead of the roofing nails.

Why? Company says use roofing nails, use roofing nails. You could use vynal siding nails, they are aluminum.

I am using 5/4" treated because the drain pipe won't allow me enough space for a 2X4.

Do you mean that the shower drain is to close to the wall to use a 2x4 to stud out wall or do you mean that there is a pipe in the wall and a 2x4 turned flat will not give enough space for the pipe?

COuld the enclosure be attached directly to the wall??

Company said not.