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    jjustinia's Avatar
    jjustinia Posts: 136, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Jun 14, 2009, 03:34 PM
    Toilet flange height
    Should the flange be scewed to the durarock and then tiled around or should the tile be laid and then have the flange tight to the top of the tiles, can't seem to get one opinion as to the right way to do it and avoid problems. I would appreciate your help. By the way the tub is great thanks for your help!
    pare_john's Avatar
    pare_john Posts: 97, Reputation: 3
    Junior Member
     
    #2

    Jun 14, 2009, 03:50 PM

    Majority of the time people will tell you to lay the flange ontop of the tiles/finished floor. But you still see others that say it should be flush
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #3

    Jun 14, 2009, 04:20 PM
    Hey again...

    If you have the option available to you ALWAYS install the flange so it sits on top of the tile... see image to be clear.

    This results in the ideal amount of wax sealing between the base of the toilet and the closet flange. Plumbing engineers design toilets with this standard in mind... ;)

    As mentioned, a toilet flange can also be set flush with the tile and things will work fine... just not ideal.

    MARK
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    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
    Plumbing Expert
     
    #4

    Jun 14, 2009, 04:29 PM
    Hi jjustinia:
    It is done BOTH ways. If the closet ring is installed on subfloor than use spacers or high wax ring to compensate for height of the tile. If it installed over tile, than you have to drill through the tile to attach closet ring to the subfloor with brass screws.

    Installing flange on top of tile presents small problem: tile may crack during drilling since the hole you drill is too close to its edge.

    You decide what to do. Both ways is an acceptable method of installation.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #5

    Jun 14, 2009, 04:47 PM
    As a rule we don't have to screw the flange to the tile. The pour and fill dirt hold the closet bend secure enough so we don't have to. That's on the slab. On a two story we drill inserts into the tile and screw the flange down to that. And we wait until the tile goes down before we set the flange. Regards. Tom
    jjustinia's Avatar
    jjustinia Posts: 136, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #6

    Jun 15, 2009, 07:20 PM

    Thanks for all the great advice. Let me know what you think about this idea. I will cut out a wood ring about a quarter inch thick and place that on the dura rock sub floor and screw the flange through that and into the subfloor. Then I can tile up to the wood and then the flange will be at the correct height and then I would easily be able to screw into the wood as needed.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #7

    Jun 15, 2009, 08:18 PM

    As a remodeler who does a small amount of plumbing and a large amount of tile I can say Marks picture is a perfect example of the tight end of the extreme. You have your flange bottom flush with the floor and it should work every time. However, the other end of the extreme is top of flange flush with top of tile.
    jjustinia's Avatar
    jjustinia Posts: 136, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #8

    Jun 15, 2009, 08:45 PM

    So do you think my idea is a good one to achieve aligning the flange bottom with the finished floor?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #9

    Jun 16, 2009, 03:49 AM
    Hey hey...

    It is not the way I would do it, but it is a good idea if you are concerned about drilling the tile.

    Your idea of the 1/4" thick plywood will work just fine... EXCEPT... that you will want to have the tile on hand before choosing the plywood thickness as some tiles are 1/4", some 3/8" and some are even 1/2" thick.

    You also need to include for the 1/4" thinset mortar that will go in between the tile and the cement board, but the 1/4" thinset will get squished out to about 1/8"... So, as an example:

    If using a 3/8" porcelain tile and you squish the thinset between tile and cement board which gives 1/8" you will need to set a 1/2" plywood circle (3/8" + 1/8") under the flange.

    Finally, you could also go with the 1/4" plywood and then just use an extra thick wax ring to set the toilet if you find the tile is thicker later down the road.


    Good luck!

    MARK
    Bljack's Avatar
    Bljack Posts: 245, Reputation: 28
    Full Member
     
    #10

    Jul 21, 2009, 08:12 AM
    Ya know, I was researching the original posters old threads to get background info about a new thread they started today. I have a flange in my van. When I make my mark on the tile for the soil pipe, I lay the flange on top to mark the screw locations and when I'm done using my grinder to cut out the curve, I notch the tile where the flange screws will go through. Next time you're on a job, give your friendly tile guy a coffee and a pvc spacer and ask him to do the same tile notching for you. Seriously, he KNOWS you need to put screws through it. No reason plumbers and setters need to be like oil and water. ;) Let's now join hands and sing Kumbaya
    jjustinia's Avatar
    jjustinia Posts: 136, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #11

    Jul 23, 2009, 10:41 AM

    That is what I will do. Good advice!

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