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jwarrenski · May 14, 2009, 12:35 PM

Hi,
A few weeks ago I had to pull the well pump and replace the wiring to the pump because it was damaged in several places. The well is only 5 years old.

Yesterday, the water pressure started varying repeatedly. For a few seconds it's good then it droups a little. I also noticed a clicking noise near the storage tank. When I turn the breaker to the pump off the clicking noise stops. The pump is a 2-wire Franklin 1 HP 10 GPM. It's on a double pole 20-amp circuit. Is there any way to test the tank?

Thanks,
John

jwarrenski · May 14, 2009, 02:01 PM

I found out that the pressure tank is shot. Could this have anything to do with when I pulled the pump?
Thanks, John

jlisenbe · May 14, 2009, 02:56 PM

The clicking noise is your switch. It's a little grey box that is responsible for reading the pressure of the system, then turning the pump off or on as needed.

What makes you think your tank is shot? There is probably a little air valve at the top. If you hold it down for a couple of seconds and water comes out, then it's curtains for the tank and it would need replacing.

jwarrenski · May 14, 2009, 03:24 PM

Thanks for your reply. I checked the valve earlier and water did come out. Could the take going bad be related to me pulling the pump a few weeks ago? Thanks, John

jlisenbe · May 14, 2009, 03:28 PM

Probably not. Whatever the cause, replacing the tank is not a super-hard job. You should be able to get a new tank for less than two hundred. A little plumbing and you're good to go. Set the pressure at the top of the tank to 2# below the cut in point for the pump. If the pump cuts on at, say, 30#, then you will set the pressure in the tank to 28#. Do this while the tank is empty.

csavage1 · May 14, 2009, 06:51 PM

Did the old pump have a torgue arrester and nylon centering discs to keep the pipe and wire protected? That 1 hp motor has some real good torgue and needs to be protected from any movement. Just my 2 cents but that's all I got. Good luck

jwarrenski · May 15, 2009, 04:55 AM

Hi CSAVAGE1 -- thanks for your response. I'm new to wells, but the pump does have a heavy rubber -- kind on oblong diamond shaped piece attached to it (I guess this is the tork arrestor?). Also, there are nylon disks about every 40-50 ft. The wire had been taped to the plactic tubing every so often. When I replaced it I taped it every 8-10 feet. I used 3M electrical professional duty rubber waterproof tape. The wire took a real beating (one especially) for about the first 50 ft from the pump (wires were coming through the insullation at some points) - the other 250 ft looked pretty good -- not frayed Thanks, John

jlisenbe · May 15, 2009, 01:31 PM

Did you replace the wire?

jwarrenski · May 16, 2009, 12:04 AM

Jlisenbe, yes --

speedball1 · May 16, 2009, 05:36 AM

Have you replaced the bladder tank yet? If not then do so. Follow
Jlisenbes advice,

Set the pressure at the top of the tank to 2 PSI below the cut in point for the pump. If the pump cuts on at, say, 30PSI, then you will set the pressure in the tank to 28 PSI. Do this while the tank is empty and the pressure's bled off.

Good luck, Tom

jlisenbe · May 16, 2009, 01:09 PM

And let us know how it works out. It's always nice to know.

jwarrenski · May 18, 2009, 06:24 AM

Hi Tom, Yes -- I replaced it on Saturday. The tank was pre-charged at 40 o I let a little air out to make it 38 (the cut in is 40). The pump now goes on at about 40 - runs about a minute (until it hits around 60) , then stays off for about 6 minutes. Does this sound about right? I checked it when the washer was going. Thanks, John

speedball1 · May 18, 2009, 06:43 AM

Good morning John, If it pumps to 60 PSI and holds pressure without anything running you're good to go. Good luck, Tom