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jon123 · Apr 3, 2009, 06:04 AM

I been wondering which saw be it manual or motor powered is the best for cutting existing door moldings at the bottom to compensate for the extra thickness of a new floor such as hardwood flooring or bathroom projects using hardibacker,new tile? To date, I've used a sawsall with a long fine tooth metal blade or a dove tail saw.. just wondering if there are better optional tools available these days.

StaticFX · Apr 3, 2009, 06:34 AM

I would suggest a circular saw with a guide attached.

Example:

See the guide sticking out? It sits against the bottom of the door. Helps make a perfect straight cut. I had to do this on my pocket doors for the new carpet.

jon123 · Apr 3, 2009, 07:46 AM

Understand the circular saw would be good for a steady more precise method provided the saws own table/ guide tee and or fence would allow the blade to cut horizontally to within a 1/2 or 3/4 inches off the subfloor. Perhaps the dovetail saw followed by a fine metal tooth reciprocator saw is the way to go until another method is suggested. I see what your suggestion is but afraid it doesn't apply to such a task. Thank you anyway

creahands · Apr 3, 2009, 08:09 AM

Hi Jon

There is a tool call master cutter. It uses a vibrating method of cutting and has an assortment of attachments.Have it at home depot. Don't know cost,but if u do a lot of work may be worth the cost.

Good luck

Chuck

ballengerb1 · Apr 3, 2009, 08:46 AM

There are 3 or 4 versions of vibrating saws out there all based on a plaster cast cutter. Dremel makes the one as does Rockwells sonicrafter and FEIN Multimaster. C. & E. FEIN GmbH - Der FEIN MULTIMASTER The Dremel is the lowest price at $99. You can also use a hand saw made for flush cutting https://www.hardwareworld.com/Flush-...w-pC44192.aspx

StaticFX · Apr 3, 2009, 08:47 AM

My apologies! Lol, I misread the question. I thought you were cutting the DOOR down, not the moldings. :)

Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain!

ballengerb1 · Apr 3, 2009, 08:49 AM

LOL , I knew what you were thinking when I saw that saw you posted. Its all good.

KISS · Apr 3, 2009, 09:05 AM

Thanks ballanger. You beat me to the plug. Yes I do own the Multimaster FWIW. A pricey tool that can do a lot of things. Wtach the videos on the website.

There is a commercial distributer as well as a woodworker supply store carrying it now where I am.

logan176 · Apr 4, 2009, 05:13 AM

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

Dremel makes the one as does Rockwells sonicrafter and FEIN Multimaster. C. & E. FEIN GmbH - Der FEIN MULTIMASTER The Dremel is the lowest price at $99. You can also use a hand saw made for flush cutting https://www.hardwareworld.com/Flush-...w-pC44192.aspx

I bought a Japanese saw a couple years ago for just this reason. The Fein Multimaster looks great... but price dictated that I buy the Dremmel MultiMax. I was cutting down door jambs last night and the tool rocks! The Japanese saw works well, but the MultiMax is much easier because of the plunge cut ability. The cut is also cleaner than the Japanese saw because the blade is thinner, there is no bending of a blade and your knuckles won't be hitting the floor. For $100 it's well worth the money. Not to mention the grout removing bit rocks too!

21boat · Apr 4, 2009, 08:17 PM

Jon123 there is a saw that maybe you can rent there that we have hear. The saw is designed to only cut bottom casings and door jambs. It acts as a plunge cut saw. You can set the depth and the height of cut for the tile thickness.

Jamb Saws & Toe Kick Saws - Crain jamb saw, Roberts jamb saw, toe kick saw. Contractors Direct

The tool below is a knock off from the Feinmaster but its only $39.99 at a harbor freight store. I use it a lot in our rehabs and it works as well as the $250.00 plus vibrating cut tools.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65700

jon123 · Apr 14, 2009, 02:51 PM

Guys, lol.. I got to laugh.. I was at both home depot and Lowe's have what is known as an "undercut saw" under 20 bucks it made it easy work.. it took me a (hard)day to blowout the existing bathroom tile off an existing 65sq.ft.subfloor, repaired a small portion of sub rot as needed.. day 2 modified thinset and 1/4 hardibacker screwed accordingly and painted ceiling.. day 3 did the tile.. day 4 was grout and basemold and two custom saddles.. day 5 was dip wallpaper paste scaping prep cleaning for painting primer... day 6 finished prep spackled/caulked /primer painted/finished bathroom paint.. day6.. bath wall fixtures and painting two bath entry doors. Please give me an idea how much I should charge in bergen/passaic nj area? I figure at least 250 a day as a licensed /insured handyman thank you again

jon123 · Apr 14, 2009, 03:04 PM

Originally Posted by 21boat

Jon123 there is a saw that maybe you can rent there that we have hear. The saw is designed to only cut bottom casings and door jambs. It acts as a plunge cut saw. You can set the depth and the height of cut for the tile thickness.

Jamb Saws & Toe Kick Saws - Crain jamb saw, Roberts jamb saw, toe kick saw. Contractors Direct

The tool below is a knock off from the Feinmaster but its only $39.99 at a harbor freight store. I use it a lot in our rehabs and it works as well as the $250.00 plus vibrating cut tools.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

21boat that is the manual jambsaw I picked up at Lowe's for about 15 bucks
:) ty all

hkstroud · Apr 15, 2009, 05:42 AM

Use your sawsall.

Fastest, about 5 seconds
Cheapest, about $2 for blade
Most accurate, the thickness of tile and blade gives you the exact amount of undercut needed.

Remove shoe and put a 9 or 11" blade in saw.
Place a piece of tile to be used on floor next to molding.

Place end of blade on tile and push down until about half of blade is flat on tile.

Cut molding.

jon123 · Apr 15, 2009, 06:37 AM

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Use your sawsall.

Fastest, about 5 seconds
Cheapest, about $2 for blade
Most accurate, the thickness of tile and blade gives you the exact amount of undercut needed.

Remove shoe and put a 9 or 11" blade in saw.
Place a piece of tile to be used on floor next to molding.

Place end of blade on tile and push down until about half of blade is flat on tile.

Cut molding.

Harold , I use to do that using long fine tooth blades but, still too jumpy in my opinion also not as careful or accurate as a manual undercut jamb saw that is even more versatile in close corners. Okay I suppose approximate labor costs are not allowed on this site.. understandable.. I know I usually charge 400.00 a day on avg. for myself employed job as a professional handyman in northern nj. Cost of license fees/ insurances and rises in general are reason for debate. Cheers all ! Off to work another day! Remember read tool safety first!