Check out some similar questions!

gocivicgo · Jan 6, 2009, 11:05 AM

Hi everyone,
I have an automatic civic 92.
I've been reading other answers on hondas that turn but won't crank.
My problem is that my car stalled on me on the road 2 weeks ago during extreme cold weather (-35 degrees) and had to tow it back home. Obviously I thought the gas lines were frozen. I went to buy gas line antifreeze and added it and waited until the temperature reached zero degrees to eliminate the posibility of frozen gas lines.
Now... the battery was dead so I boosted the car and it started immediately and I let it run for about 15 min before it stalled again. I tried boosting it again but this time the car won't start... the engine just spins but will not run. I can hear the fuel pump click when I turn the key so it seems like the pump works... the engine light stays on after the car stalls. Coud it be the fuel filter? I'm really confused as per why would the car start the first time, then stall, and then not start at all!? :confused:

Any ideas/suggestions would be very much appreciated!
Thank you.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 6, 2009, 11:34 AM

Here's what I would do:

. Check for codes:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post832012

. Reset the ECM by pulling the Backup Fuse (7.5A) in the underhood fuse box, or disconnecting the negative battery cable, for 10 seconds.

. Turn the ignition switch to ON and see if the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out. This is very important diagnostic information.

. Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the coil, if the CEL operates normally:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Each of these problematic components should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

It's best not to boost modern-day cars, due to the possibility of damaging the ECM, alternator, and other components. Since you live in such a cold climate, I would only use 5W-30 full-synthetic engine oil; e.g. Mobil 1. I would also use Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in your automatic transmission.

Sticky Sam · Jan 6, 2009, 12:39 PM

Failing the grease monkeys two penneth, it could be the fuel filter. I had a diesel Ford Escort, it would start fine and run a few minutes before cutting out. If I left the car for awhile, I could start the car again. I replaced the fuel filter which was clagged with gunge, ran fine afterwards. I realise diesels clog filters more often than petrol engines, well mine do !

gocivicgo · Feb 22, 2009, 03:47 PM

HI grease monkey,
As you suggested, I changed the ICM... that took care of the problem... what a relief!:D
I had changed the coil the year before, next time I'll make sure to change both at the same time.
Thanks so much for your help!

TxGreaseMonkey · Feb 22, 2009, 03:59 PM

Thanks for the update. Good job!

Do you live in Alaska or N.W. Canada?

gocivicgo · Feb 23, 2009, 01:37 PM

I live in Alberta, Canada next to the rockies... great scenery!

By the way, now I have another problem I hope you can help me with.
I have a 99 chevy Venture van which had the thermostat changed due to the lack of hot air coming inside the van which is really needed in this cold weather.
But once they replaced the thermostat, the heating stopped working again within days. They told me the thermostat they put in had to be replaced again and even though it worked for a few days we're back at step one.
After spending money and time with that garage where they seem to hate to work with these types of vans, I decided not to bring it back.

The van has very little heat and the coolant seems to disappear into thin air since there's no leaks under the van or around the engine. A friend told me there could be a problem with the intake gasket and that DEXCOOL antifreeze is a known problem among GM vehicles.

What do you think? (I hope I can afford a new car one day)

Thank you.

TxGreaseMonkey · Feb 23, 2009, 06:09 PM

White smoke in the exhaust would indicate antifreeze is being burned. Most likely, it would be a result of a leaking head gasket (warped head). DexCool is fine, if you keep the system full and don't allow air pockets to form. Ensure the overflow tank works properly and keep it filled to the MAX Line. Change DexCool every 2 years and mix it only with distilled water--not tap or well water.

I would drain the heater and cooling system, install the proper thermostat yourself, and refill with fresh coolant. I should not be too difficult a project. This assumes the engine is not burning antifreeze and the head gasket is fine.