[Stubits]

Well, for those who followed the basement bathroom from hell, we are just about done! Our plumber managed to take care of the venting issues, trap issues and just general horrible nature of the plumbing work in our basement. Along the way he found some time, and we found some money, for him to rough-in a sink for a kitchenette we installed (the actual job we undertook). I am trying to figure out if I am able to take this project from rough-in to finished on my own or if I need to bring our plumber back in. You're help and guidance would be very much appreciated.

Here is where we are at right now. Coming out of our wall we have hot and cold pipes, about 4-6 inches of copper, with a cap soldered onto the end. We also have a 1.5" (I think) PVC pipe coming out horizontally. Our setup is a little strange as we wanted a corner sink and ended up using a corner wall cabinet as a base cabinet. It works well, will fit the sink, no worries there, but the hot, cold and drain pipes are all woefully short and do not even reach the back of the cabinet. I am guessing I will have to extend them into the cabinet, then install shut-offs on the hot and cold and a p-trap onto the drain, right? I know I can do the drain using plumber's primer/glue, but I do not know how to sweat copper joints. Is this something I can do this using compression fittings? I know I can with the shut offs, but can I extend the pipes using compression fittings as well?

I am at work now, but could have my mother-in-law send a photo if that would help.

Thanks!

[ballengerb1]

Lets be clear "hot, cold and drain pipes" you don't have hot and cold drain pipes, there is only one drain 1 1/2" into the wall. You can extend that pipe with a PVC compression drain, no gluing needed. The supply lines can be connected directly to flexible supply lines of various length by a compression fitting or by soldering a threaded fitting onto the copper. You would need to shop a bit at the hardware store to get the right parts. If you aren't sure what you need take your flexible pipe, stop valves and copper pipe with you.

[Stubits]

Ballenger:

Thanks for the clarification, I am aware there is only one drain, just sloppy writing. I apologize.

Sounds like this shouldn't be too bad. I am pretty handy, built the kitchenette myself, including some electrical, etc. but I don't have much plumbing experience.

The drain sounds easy enough, thanks.

So, you are saying I can connect the flexible supply lines directly to the copper supply lines, even though that connection will occur entirely(indeed by more than 6 inches or so) behind the cabinet. So effectively I'd connect the flexible supply line to the copper supply line, it would run for 6 inches or so, then come through the back of the cabinet and up to the faucet.

Does this sound OK? Will it function OK? Will the flexible line bang against the cabinet every time we turn the water on?

Thanks!

[ballengerb1]

Yes but I would make sure that the flewible coonection to the rigid pipe is accessible after everything is done. You still need to be able to service this connection for leaks or future repairs and this would be a great location for your angle stops. You can buy a stop that is a compression that slips right onto the rigid pipe. The other end of the stop is set to accept your flexible supply line. If you wan to move all of this to the cabinet space undervthe sink you can extend the rigid copper with a Sharkbite fitting, soldered fitting or other combinations of flexible pipe and fittings.

[Stubits]

Do I need special tools or skills to do the sharkbite fittings?

[ballengerb1]

Nope, that's one of the nice features with Sharkbite, no tools or skills required. They are not cheap compared to other connector but nothing is easier. Watts and other manufacturers also make similar products for just a hair less. PlumbingSupply.com - SharkBite Pipe Repair Fittings by Cash Acme or from Watts Watts: Connectors | Quick-Connect Solutions

[Stubits]

This all sounds fantastic! Thanks a ton. On the drain, I want to hold off on installing the actual p-trap and whatnot until the countertops and the sink have been installed, but I can extend the PVC through the back of the cabinet, correct?

Then I will use the sharkbite fittings to extend the rigid copper pipes through the back of the cabinet as well and then use compression fittings to install the shutoffs and the flexible lines.

Does this all make sense?

[afaroo]

No you don't need a special tool for installation for removal you need one See the (Image),and you don't need a special skill either, Make suere that the pipe goes in an inch into the sharkbite fitting, good luck.

John

[ballengerb1]

The guy at Lowe's says Ray Charles can install a Sharkbite at midnight on a dark night, they are almost foolproof.

[KISS]

Compression connectors are not allowed to be concealed. Not sure of the rule for Sharkbites. Any help here?

In any event soldering is not hard. You just need to practice a bit, but we can walk you through that if need be.

[afaroo]

I believe that Sharkbites can be used in concealed area, lets wait what the plumbing exoerts has to say when they get on line, Regarding soildering yes it is hard for a person who have nevr done it and has no experence at all, I will never suggest soldring to an unexperence person, Thanks.

John

[mygirlsdad77]

Thank god for sharkbite fittings. Only problem is, I imagine in five to ten years, appentice plumbers won't even know how to light a torch, let alone solder,lol.