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    Erroneus's Avatar
    Erroneus Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jun 27, 2008, 04:33 PM
    Contactor Replacement
    I have received my new contatctor and am ready to replace it. There are two sides I see on it. L1 and L2, and T1 and T2. Any advice from the professionals before I swap it out. I am very happy with the results on my new fan, motor, and cap. Only the contactor remains. If the old contactor doesn't have identical L1, L2 and T1, T2 markings, just go by sight, one wire at a time. That's my best guess right now. I sure don't relate to the terminal designations, although I know the motor has two lines, or L1 and L2 if you wish.
    But L1 and L2 doesn't say anything to me coming from the house side, nor does T1 or T2.

    Thanks.
    westnlas's Avatar
    westnlas Posts: 322, Reputation: 25
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    #2

    Jun 27, 2008, 04:45 PM
    L1 & L2 terminals are "Line" or the supply terminals. The T terminals are "Taps" that go to the fan and compressor. The contactor is simply a switch that is activated by the magnetic coil. The coil is activated by the wires from the t-stat.

    My advice is to take a picture of the existing contactor with your digital camera before removing any wires. Then you can print out a copy and use it for reference when installing the wires on the new one.

    If you don't have a camera, mark the wire locations on the box before removing the contactor. Install the new one and attach the wires in the same terminals. You might even draw a wiring diagram before starting.

    As far as it goes, the old contactor is marked at the terminals also, but may be dusty and hard to see. The only difference in the L and T terminals may be that the number of flag connections on the T terminal may be greater than the L side. This is because you might have more wires going out than coming in.
    wmproop's Avatar
    wmproop Posts: 3,749, Reputation: 91
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    #3

    Jun 27, 2008, 04:56 PM
    NUMBER ONE thing to do kill the power in breaker box to condenser unit /a-c,, and to the furnace, as the furnace is what sends the low voltage power to and from the tstat,, if you was to happen to touch the stat wires together you could blow your tstat or transformer or both,, prob. Not but be safe than sorry
    Erroneus's Avatar
    Erroneus Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jun 27, 2008, 07:23 PM
    Thanks for the replies, I tried to rate the answers, but the system told me I had to spread the reputation around. Alrighty then, anyone have a spatula?
    Erroneus's Avatar
    Erroneus Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jun 28, 2008, 05:51 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by wmproop
    NUMBER ONE thing to do kill the power in breaker box to condenser unit /a-c ,,,and to the furnace,,as the furnace is what sends the low voltage power to and from the tstat,,,if you was to happen to touch the stat wires together you could blow your tstat or transformer or both,,,prob. not but be safe than sorry
    Well, I am looking at the ratings on the old contactor: 240-277 vac =FLA 25, LRA 150
    480 vac= FLA 25, LRA 50
    600 vac =FLA 25, LRA 40
    Pole Res on all three = 30 amps

    The ratings on the new contactor: 277 vac = FLA 30, LRA 180
    480 vac = FLA 30, LRA 150
    600 vac= FLA 30, LRA 120
    Pole Res on all three 40 amps

    They both say 50/60 hz. 24 vac coil.

    Am I good to proceed with replacement. Are the numbers OK? I am pretty sure FLA and RLA refer to amps and resistive loads I am guessing...
    wmproop's Avatar
    wmproop Posts: 3,749, Reputation: 91
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    #6

    Jun 29, 2008, 02:13 PM
    Go for it,, is better that the new numbers are higher than lower,,
    Erroneus's Avatar
    Erroneus Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jun 29, 2008, 03:40 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by wmproop
    go for it,,,,,,is better that the new numbers are higher than lower,,,,,,,

    Thanks everyone...

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