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    raider395's Avatar
    raider395 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    May 27, 2008, 04:47 PM
    Fitting flange in a tilted toilet drain pipe
    I need to replace the flange, but the 4 inch cast iron drain coming through the floor is at a slight angle. This is causing the "twist-n-set" replacement flange to be raised one whole inch on one side. Is there another type of flange that may work better?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #2

    May 28, 2008, 03:47 AM
    There is a better flange. It is a cast iron flange... but requires special tools such as a torch, lead, oakum, packing irons, etc.

    I am thinking it may be easier for you to CUT/straighten the pipe using an angle grinder and a diamond/metal cutting blade then to start getting involved with lead/oakum joints and cast iron flanges.

    Let me know what you think... MARK

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    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #3

    May 28, 2008, 05:52 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by raider395
    I need to replace the flange, but the 4 inch cast iron drain coming through the floor is at a slight angle. This is causing the "twist-n-set" replacement flange to be raised one whole inch on one side. Is there another type of flange that may work better?
    First off forget finding a flange that will make up the tilt of the closet bend. Ain't going to happen!
    I've been faced with that problem before. Mass plumber gave you one solution, let me give you another. Take a 2 X 4 about 4 or 5 foot long and place it in the open closet bend, now start to "bounce and lever" the closet bend up level. When the fitting's level you will have loosened the lead joint so you will have to recaulk the joint, (not melt and repour it) using caulking tools, (see image) which can be rented from your local Rent-All Store. Recaulking a lead joint's easy. Take the inside caulking iron, ( the one with the bevel looking out) and caulk the inside of the pipe using enough strength to mark the lead well, but not strong enough to crack the cast iron bell. Do the same with a outside iron, ( the one with the bevel looking in.) and you've just caulked a lead joint. Good luck, Tom

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