[reachief]

I am about to purchase Kichler under cabinet lights. I am installing the wire needed. How do I calculate the proper size if these are 12 volt, 18 watt xenon bulbs?
Do I just add the total number of lights up in all the fixtures (for example 10 lights) and multiply by 18 watts (10 bulbs x 18 W = 180 watts). Then divide that by the voltage (180 watts divided by 12 volts = 15 Amps). So this would mean that I should use 12 AWG wire on a 20 Amp circuit? What if I had 11 or 12 lights - can I still use 12 AWG? I read somewhere that the safety factor is 125% - so that would mean that the maximum amperage for 12 AWG would be 16 or is there some wiggle room?
Russ

[KISS]

As my father would say "Right church, wrong pew".

What's Watts? The 180 W you got right which is the amount of energy required to operate the bulbs, but that is 15 Amps at 12 Volts. It could also be 180W divided by 120 V if it were on a 120 Volt circuit. (Right Church)

Those lamps require transformers in order to operate on 120 V. And the current required on a 120 V circuit would be just over an AMP. (Wrong Pew)

You also picked an interesting number of 10. 10 * 12 = 120 V. They could be wired in series, but if one went out all the other ones would too, just like modern Christmas lights and again the current would be quite small, just over an amp.

At this point, I'm not sure what to say, except a 120V/12V 15A transformer will be big and heavy. Example: American Lighting LLC Magnetic Transformer TR-1200-12 reviews and ratings

Now each bulb draws 18 W/12 V or just over an AMP. So if you wired each bulb separately to the transformer you could get away with 18 AWG for each lamp. You might be able to wire with fixture wire.

Your turn.

[reachief]

As my father would say "Right church, wrong pew".

What's Watts? The 180 W you got right which is the amount of energy required to operate the bulbs, but that is 15 Amps at 12 Volts. It could also be 180W divided by 120 V if it were on a 120 Volt circuit. (Right Church)

Those lamps require transformers in order to operate on 120 V. And the current required on a 120 V circuit would be just over an AMP. (Wrong Pew)

You also picked an interesting number of 10. 10 * 12 = 120 V. They could be wired in series, but if one went out all the other ones would too, just like modern Christmas lights and again the current would be quite small, just over an amp.

At this point, I'm not sure what to say, except a 120V/12V 15A transformer will be big and heavy. example: American Lighting LLC Magnetic Transformer TR-1200-12 reviews and ratings

Now each bulb draws 18 W/12 V or just over an AMP. So if you wired each bulb separately to the transformer you could get away with 18 AWG for each lamp. You might be able to wire with fixture wire.

Your turn.

OK... this makes sense, but can you tell me the right way to wire these Kichler 10568 series units. I want to install 6 of these style units (1 @ 3 bulbs, 3 @ 2 bulbs and 1 @ 1 bulb) under my cabinets that are not adjacent to each other. I'm not even sure whether I need to buy the units with the module (10568 - 1 bulb unit) or not (10565 - 1 bulb unit w/o module).
I think that I need to supply each unit with 120V and attach it to their module at each location. Would it be easier to see a picture? Or is this enough information?
Can you get me to the right church on time?

[KISS]

I got frustrated very quickly at KIchlers website. This offers a better explanation. Not great, just better. How to Install Kichler Under Cabinet Lighting

I'll describe what I thought I saw. The lights can be stacked end to end to make an appropriately sized "light bar". No extra wiring.

The lights can be joined by pre-wired wire jumpers of various lengths.

* I THINK a custom length can be created with a wire module. Use two small jumpers plus the module.

I WOULD HOPE that a wire module can be installed anywhere in the set to provide power.

* The wire module does provide a mechanism of getting power to the fixtures and so does a fixture with a cord.

There are lots of unanswered questions, like there are for many products today. You have to have one in your hand to know how to use it.

The wire module does operate on 120 V and the high cost of the lights justifies that each light has an integral transformer.

Another question is 1) Where is the switch? Do you have to provide a switched outlet?
I doubt they provided something funky like a switch on every fixture which can be programmed to operate each lamp independently or together. So, again, I think you have to provide a switched outlet.

I'd give the people in the link I specified and give them a call. I hope you can beat the sale.

Also ask them, "Hpw would you create a custom jumper length"?
Wiring module + 2 interconnecting jumpers + Wire (What kind?)

The 120 V requirements are small and the 120 V interconnect wiring is premade.

There are questions as to how to get this wiring to the cabinets. I think it's basically designed to plug in at an end. But, where is the power switch? I doubt your allowed to run this wiring in the wall.

As "Short Circuit" would say "Input, Input. I need Input".

Make a phone call with the stuff from the website and only hope that you get a knowledgeable human.

[Washington1]

OK... this makes sense, but can you tell me the right way to wire these Kichler 10568 series units. I want to install 6 of these style units (1 @ 3 bulbs, 3 @ 2 bulbs and 1 @ 1 bulb) under my cabinets that are not adjacent to each other. I'm not even sure whether I need to buy the units with the module (10568 - 1 bulb unit) or not (10565 - 1 bulb unit w/o module).
I think that I need to supply each unit with 120V and attach it to their module at each location. Would it be easier to see a picture? Or is this enough information?
Can you get me to the right church on time?

The undercabs you have are kind of like the Juno's we install. They are excellent! All you have to do is install NM cable from a remote switch to module box or directly to the fixture--depending on your fixture layout. (Note: Highly recommend you get a module box--depending on your set-up. (Set-up Example: If you have two lights together under one cabinet, the module box should be installed at the far end of that cabinet, under the cabinet. Your NM cable will run to the module box, and all you would need to do, is use a jumper cord to connect your two undercabinet lights and to jump power from your module box.) Module boxes are great!! They save you time, and money! Now, if you only have one undercabinet light--with no other lights, then run your NM cable directly to the fixture per code. As far as the switch goes. It depends on your light fixture. Most of the Juno's we install come with built-in switches, yet we do not use them, we install our own light switch. You can do the same--depending on your situation, and wants. Note: How you layout your fixtures will somewhat dictate rather you need a module or not, and how you should use that module if you need one.

Warning: The jumper cords cannot be ran in the wall.

[KISS]

This gives a better idea of the system:

Product 10560WH

Note the power cord and the switch module.

[reachief]

So bottom line which no one actually answered... the total amperage needed for all 10-11 light bulbs is less than 2 amps, so 14 AWG is more than adequate. Run power to a switch and then in & out to each light fixture where I will pull the wire directly through the wall and hard wire directly in the fixture Module which transforms the 120V down to 12V. Done and to code. Thanks everyone for your help...
I also found that my local electrical supply house is an average $15 cheaper per fixture.
Russ

[KISS]

The 14 AWG is more than adequate.
Each fixture apparently contains an integral transformer.

[Washington1]

The 14 AWG is more than adequate.
Each fixture apparently contains an integral transformer.

I agree, but I'm going to stop going out of my way!:rolleyes: :)

[KISS]

Why? Lost?

[Washington1]

Why? Lost?

Not lost at all, we install juno undercabs like this in many of our high end homes.

No comment on the first question.

[Stratmando]

I would use #12, Low Voltage Drops FAST. Difference in size is so small, especially if powered from 1 source and long runs are involved or you may see a difference in brightness, then I would use 1 transformer. Take Care

[KISS]

Strat:

The wiring is 120 VAC, not 12 DC.

[Washington1]

Strat,
Keep is correct.


The undercabs have built-in transformers