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jdporter · Feb 17, 2006, 08:22 PM

I have a split receptacle that is switched. The switched portion is reading 34 volts when the switch is off and 120 when on.

What is wrong? What should I be looking for?

tkrussell · Feb 18, 2006, 01:14 PM

Sorry to take so long to get to your question. I missed your post somehow.

Between which two terminals are you reading 34 v?

Is only the hot side of the outlet split? Or is the neutral side split also? Look between both screws on both sides of the outlet, you should see a small metal jumper on the neutral side between both screws, and the jumper should be missing on the hot side.

Sounds as if this outlet is in series with some other load. Hope you can get bacl to me with answers to my questions and we can go from there.

Thanks

jdporter · Feb 18, 2006, 03:59 PM

The full circuit is as follows:

Line in goes to a GFCI (line). On the Load side of the GFCI, I ran a line to the Split Receptacle. In the Split Receptacle, I pigtailed the hot so that the lower outlet is always hot and ran a switch to the upper outlet (this is set up to operate the dishwasher & Garbage disposal). Only the Brass tab has been removed, the silver is intact. The switch is a Back-Lighted Rocker switch.

The 34 volts is read between the Hot & Neutral of the upper (switched) outlet, with the switch off.

Some things I noticed.

If there is nothing plugged into the switched outlet, the back-light on the switch doed not light. If I plug anything into the outlet, on or off, ever the three light tester, the back-light to the switch comes on.

After I noticed that, I tested the outlet with a lamp plugged into the outlet and the rocker switch in the off position. Touching the volt meter to the brass & silver screws for the switched outlet, I read zero volts and the back-light to the switch was lit. I turned the rocker switch to the on position and the lamp came on as it should.

All this leads me to believe the voltage I am reading on the switched outlet is somehow required in order to light the back-light on the rocker switch (I hope so). I just want to make sure I haven't somehow screwed up and have a voltage leak that will cause problems later down the road.

tkrussell · Feb 18, 2006, 04:10 PM

The issue seems to be the rocker switch. How many terminals are on the switch? Can you find a make and part number on the switch?

jdporter · Feb 18, 2006, 07:43 PM

It is a Veviton Decora Sng Pole, Grounded Lighted Switch. I have wired to the side terminals.

I have actually used two different switches with similar results. On one the voltage read 34 and the other the voltage read 43.

Model #104-05611-2Ws

tkrussell · Feb 18, 2006, 10:07 PM

Not sure, do you mean Leviton? Below are the part numbers for all leviton Decora switches with lights.Sorry but these switches are all different and I really need to know make and number to help fiqure this out.

20 AMP Back and Side Wired Illuminated
(Lens illuminated when load OFF)
DESCRIPTION CAT. NO. COLOR*
Single-Pole, 120V 60Hz AC Only 5631-2 I, W, A, E
Three-way, 120V 60Hz AC Only 5633-2 I, W, A
Single-Pole, 277V 60Hz AC Only 5649-2 I, W
Three-way, 277V 60Hz AC Only 5659-2 W
20 AMP Back and Side Wired Pilot Light
(Lens illuminated when load ON)
DESCRIPTION CAT. NO. COLOR*
Single Pole, 120V 60Hz AC Only 5628-2 I, W, A
Three-way, 120V 60Hz AC Only 5638-2 I, W, A
Single Pole, 277V 60Hz AC Only 5629-2 I, W
Three-way, 277V 60Hz AC Only 5639-2 W
All devices are UL Listed and CSA Certified.

jdporter · Feb 19, 2006, 08:18 AM

Sng Pole Side Wired & Quickwire
15Amp - 120v AC/CA
#104-05611-2WS

tkrussell · Feb 19, 2006, 09:09 AM

I cannot find the exact number you have,and I am assuming the brand is Leviton. They do have "5611", which is part of your number, and is an illuminated switch that is lighted when switch is OFF, which only has two terminals,and is grounded.

Is the switch grounded? Using a tester, you should read 120 volts between the hot wire and the ground wire in the outlet box. If you have romex with the bare wire, and a plastic box, the bare ground must connect to the green screw on the frame of the switch.

The ground to the switch is very important to the operation of the light in the switch.

If I follow your circuit correctly, you get 120 volt power off the load side of a GFI and feed the split outlet, one half on all the time and the other half switched. This will GFI protect both your DW and GD, which is not required.

From the outlet, do you have a two wire romex cable, black white and bare ground going to the switch? The white must connect at the hot at the outlet, feed to the switch, and the switched black must come back to the switched half of the outlet, again the bare ground must be connected to all the other bare grounds at the outlet,and to the switch ground terminals.

If your circuit is any thing else than what I have described, there is the problem.

Hope this helps, get back with what you have found or more questions.

jdporter · Feb 19, 2006, 10:03 AM

That is how I have it set up.

It just seemed an lot of voltage to run the tiny light inside the switch. I have done a lot of wiring before but just never this particular set up.

Thanks for checking out what I have done. It seemed like it should be right and I feel better having someone confirm it.

(PS> Having the GD & DW protected by the GFCI just worked out to be the easiest way for me to use in this particular situation)

Thanks again