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    poopstar's Avatar
    poopstar Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Feb 2, 2008, 08:45 PM
    How do you remove the 93' Civic distributor?
    Hi,
    I've got a 93' civic dx hatchback, and the car no longer starts. It died one day while I was driving. Anyhoo, so when I don't jump the little switch with a paper clip, the CEL light comes on for 2 seconds, then goes off, and I hear the fuel pump click. When I do jump the cables, the CEL comes on and stays on (and I hear the fuel pump click). I chekced all fuses, and cehcked for spark, and there is no spark. I did the "K-test" and I am getting 5 volts. So I guess I needa check something with the distributor. The thing is, I was able to remove the distributor cap, but I can't get to the screw of the rotor. I heard that you can just crank the starter to make the rotor spin, but its not working.

    How do I rotate the rotor to access the screw?
    Any help is greatly appreciated.
    beltrajp's Avatar
    beltrajp Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #2

    Feb 5, 2008, 07:51 AM
    I've got the same problem.
    Perphaps those links may help you

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post265896

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post260436
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #3

    Feb 5, 2008, 08:34 AM
    Distributor Replacement

    1. Disconnect negative battery terminal, after recording radio code.
    2. Mark distributor housing and bracket, for timing to be fairly close later.
    3. Remove three hex head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8 mm nut driver.
    4. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
    5. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using #2 Phillips head screwdriver, and leak cover. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
    6. Disconnect 2-P and 8-P electrical connectors from tower. The trick to separating these connectors is to squeeze the connector's mounting release first and remove from mount. It helps to use a small flashlight. Then, the connector will separate--do not force.
    7. Remove three 12 mm bolts securing distributor housing to engine.
    8. Remove old distributor, place on table, and remove coil, igniter, and cap seal.
    9. Install old igniter, coil, leak cover, cap seal, and rotor in new distributor. Ensure female igniter terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.
    10. Coat O-ring with engine oil.
    11. Install distributor, align timing marks on housing and bracket, and button up.
    12. Read Sections C and D, to precisely set idle speed and ignition timing.

    Note: Due to the ingenious offset shaft, there's no way you can install the distributor incorrectly.
    poopstar's Avatar
    poopstar Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Feb 5, 2008, 01:31 PM
    The thing is I don't know how to "hit the starter" to get to the rotor screw. Like cranking the engine doesn't make my rotor turn.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #5

    Feb 5, 2008, 01:54 PM
    You have a problem, then, with your timing belt.
    poopstar's Avatar
    poopstar Posts: 16, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Feb 5, 2008, 02:04 PM
    Is there a test I can do for the timing belt?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #7

    Feb 5, 2008, 02:16 PM
    You just did it. If the rotor does not turn, the timing belt is broken or so loose that it doesn't turn the camshaft. Take it to Honda for repair.
    blkt72's Avatar
    blkt72 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jun 9, 2012, 03:08 PM
    Or the cam pulley bolt lost torque and backed off. Ask me how I know ;-)

    Cam pulley is turning, cam ain't...

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