[gebby]

Need more advice... as we speak the Service tech is checking out my non operating heat pump. I recently asked him about the blower continuing to run and he said it was normal. While in the heat mode it never reaches temp the thermostat is set at... even having it on the back up heat (elec furnace) it still does not reach that temp. That is why the blower continues to run. I tested the thermostat and set it below the temp it was in the house and the blower did kick off. This does not happen in the summer when the air is on... it comes on and off as the temp reaches the thermostat temp.

When I get the heat pump back in operation, if the outside temp is too cold for the heat pump to operate, will the outside unit quit running and switch to the back up heat?

[hvac1000]

(((When I get the heat pump back in operation, if the outside temp is too cold for the heat pump to operate, will the outside unit quit running and switch to the back up heat?))

Yes depending upon what temperature the cut off for the heat pump is set at.

[gebby]

Okay,, but I have received different responses on the blower continuing to run. If the temp reading on the thermostat never reaches the temp it is set at, the blower will continue, correct? If it never reaches the temp why doesn't the back up heat stay on until it reaches that temp? The electric furnace will kick in but then power off after awhile and the blower continues.

[hvac1000]

((If the temp reading on the thermostat never reaches the temp it is set at, the blower will continue, correct)) YES


((reaches the temp why doesn't the back up heat stay on until it reaches that temp? The electric furnace will kick in but then power off after awhile and the blower continues))

Stuck relay or the heat sequencer is bad or the thermostat ia wired incorrectly.

Have the service man look at all your problems while he is there. He can test the parts I cannot test them from here.

[gebby]

More bad news... service tech did all the tests... repaired the burnt lines and ran a vacuum check and added freon. The compressor won't run. He stated it is not the original compressor on the heat pump. Due to the age of the unit (1992) he states it is not energy efficient, something about 13 sier. States his recommendation is a new heat pump unit and furnace.

I am not sure at this time what to do. The house is almost 3100 sq ft with cathedral ceilings... located in Ohio (we know how cold the winters are). Replace the entire unit with a heat pumo/electric furnace or get estimates for a propane furnace with central air? I have total electric now so they would have to run lines and install a tank. Suggestions?

[hvac1000]

Replacing with a propane furnace will cost more for the furnace as compared to the electric furnace.
As you said the cost of running the propane line,tank,main regulator ETC will also cost.

I have a few places in Indiana that I rent to folks. In that area a propane company will install the tank and do a hook up for free if you use propane from them. I think the tank rental is 35.00 per year for a 300 gallon.

You will need to do a cost base analysis using your price of electric/KW and compared to the propane per gallon/pound. In this area propane is sold by the gallon.

Your HVAC contractor may do this calculation for you and then you can decide.

Both propane and electric as we are well aware will be going up in the future as all other sources of energy. Choose wisely.

[eschuen]

Last week I quit a company here in Toledo. Why because of the same situation your in. I seen a heat pump come into the shop I asked what the problem with it was. Don't know "sold them a new unit" Mechanics get 20% of the selling price of all new units they convince customers need replacing. THIS SUCKS! My reputation is more important to me than working for a outfit like this. Also if you were told he put a vacumn on the unit, how long was he there. This alone is not a quick job. Get a second opinion! There are good companys out there. Trouble is finding them.

[gebby]

Well I wasn't there when they were out doing the test/repair. He did state it would take at least 2 hrs for the vacuum test. I not sure where to turn... spend more money on another company to check it out? It was the owner of the company who was there. To I trust them, I have no clue as this is the first time I used them. They are across the street from where I work and been in business for quite some time.

Trustworthy, reputable companies are few and far between.

[hvac1000]

If your unit is a 1992 that means it is 16 years old. It is better to replace than repair. Do the following.

Have them give you a price on replacement of both the inside unit, outside unit, AND A NEW LINESET. This will make sure all parts of your system are new and the line set is sized correctly and not contaminated by the old system.

You do not need the most expensive equipment but you may not want to buy the cheapest. Many middle grade units offer some better components and a few extras like pressure switches.

After you get the price as them if they will consider deducting what you already paid them for service or a portion of it to ease your pain in the wallet.

Have them do a manual J for sizing the equipment for your house. Just because you have a certain size in your house now does not mean the size was picked correctly the last time the unit was installed or replaced. This could save you a few $$ if it is oversized. Oversize is something you do not want especially during the A/C season.

Most companies will also give you a new thermostat with your new system,

NOTE I do not recommend a digital thermostat for heat pump system unless it is the 8000 series honeywell digital. If you get that stat tell them you want it programed not to turn on the electric resistance heat (expensive heat) during the set back recovery time. If this is not done you will use just as much electric to recover as you saved by setting back the thermostat.