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    Jerturn's Avatar
    Jerturn Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jan 24, 2008, 04:25 PM
    Car will not start
    My 89 Nisssan Maxima will not start. The last time it started it ran roughly. I have replaced the starter, gas filter, and put in new plugs . It just turn over and over.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Jan 24, 2008, 04:29 PM
    Need to Determine if it has spark, and fuel. It likely has compression, unless engine spins freely.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
     
    #3

    Jan 24, 2008, 06:37 PM
    . Ensure battery is fully charged.

    . Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Check for codes.

    . Test for Spark. Perform the standard spark test; i.e. remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark. Do this for each plug. If none of the plugs spark:

    a. Tachometer Test. Disconnect tachometer wire (if equipped). A shorted tachometer can prevent the vehicle from starting. Try starting the car again. If it starts, the problem is with the tachometer. If it still doesn't start:

    b. Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

    c. Ignition Control Module (ignitor) Test. Characteristics of a bad ignitor are no spark (dead engine) or fluctuating rpm. Here's what it looks like and costs:

    While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

    d. Coil Test.
    1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.
    2. Measure resistance (ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not within specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.
    Here's what it looks like and costs:

    While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com

    Autozone and O'Reilly Auto Parts will test ignitors and coils for free.

    . Test for fuel.

    . If the ICM and coil fail their tests, also replace the rotor, distributor cap, and spark plug wires.

    My gut is that the ICM and/or coil are bad.

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