[bauer09]

Hi--

I am trying to wire what seems to be a 3-prong dryer into a 4-prong dryer receptacle. If I understand correctly, I need to disconnect the ground from the neutral on the back of the dryer, and hook them up separately to my 4-wire cord -- the ground wire is the added 4th wire.

However, upon looking at my dryer connection, I see the picture below... a red wire, a black wire, and then the center screw that has a green wire directly connected to the washer body. I was going to assume that this was the neutral and simply disconnect the green wire, attach the ground from my plug to the body of the dryer, and attach the neutral from my plug to the center screw. However, there are no other wires leaving that center screw --- this seemed odd to me, and this is where my question is... doesn't the neutral wire have to go somewhere to complete the circuit inside the washer? The center screw is not connected to anything but the green wire -- and I don't see how disconnecting the green wire and connecting my neutral to it will serve the purpose of a neutral wire... am I wrong here or is there something wrong with my dryer? It is brand new by the way.

Hope the picture helps my explanation---thanks in advance!

[biggsie]

From your picture I can tell you what to do to make your dryer 4 prong

1. Disconnect green wire from chassis and cut off or remove at terminal

2. Take the WHITE wire from your new plug and place it on center post

3. Take the GREEN wire and connect it to where the green wire was removed

4. The two remaining wires are 220 volt power -- one wire to each terminal

5. RED wire to Red wire --- BLACK wire to BLACK wire

6. Replace access cover --- test your new dryer

Appliantology Archive: Dryer Cords

I posted this link to give you some added information on this job

[bauer09]

I understand that website - however if you look at my picture, you do not see a white neutral wire connected to the center screw --- that is my question... not HOW to hook it up, but whether this dryer is fudged up or not.

[tkrussell]

What is the dryer nameplate voltage rating?

From the picture, I would interpret it as straight 240 volts, which will not need a neutral.

If it does need a neutral, the nameplate should state 120/240 volts.

What is the make and model number of the dryer?

I will be interested in looking at the specs and wiring diagram. If this is the way 120/240 volt units are being made, will be good for me to know and understand.

[bauer09]

The label inside the door says 240v~ 3-wire 60Hz

The model is a maytag mde2400. Here is the link to the instruction manual

http://www.maytag.com/assets/product/2201460.PDF

However, if you look at the wiring picture, it does not match up with the picture I took.

What is the difference between straight 240v and 120/240. I don't understand not "needing" a neutral -- would I still hook up the neutral?

Thanks---

[tkrussell]

Look at the last page of the manual for "Export Models", they are straight 230/240 volt, which are two hots and a green ground, no white wire.


Somehow, you have the wrong appliance for the US.

The 120/240 volt units clearly refer in the manual to the white neutral.


*******EDITED******ADDED

I suppose the 240 will work in the US, since it is 60Hz.

The white neutral is used for 120 volt timers, control, and drive motor. The 240 volt is only used by the electric heat.

Your unit may be all set with all 240 volt devices. Any chance of getting the wiring diagram that is in the unit?

[bauer09]

I can check - where would it be located?

If it is all 240v, what does that leave me doing with the white neutral wire?

[tkrussell]

From page 6:
NOTE: Wiring diagram is located inside the lower kick panel.

[bauer09]

can't get at it -- the way we it sits right now it is wedged against a wall and a 2x4.

I know you're advising here on something that seems strange - and I appreciate it --- so do you think it is something that shouldn't be a problem? (and if so, what do I do with my neutral wire?) or should I contact maytag about it?

[KISS]

If there is nothing connected to the center terminal, but the green wire to ground, then the neutral is not needed. You can still use the 4 wire cord, just cap off the white/neutral wire.

Internally, the dryer may use a transformer to reduce the 240 to 120 for the controls.

The way Maytag did it is actually cost effective for people with 3 wire receptacles. It just looks like it's doing a good job confusing people. Using a fully wired 4-wire plug to the service panel and only using 3 wires in the cord, will make the casual observer happy.
i.e. You have 4-wire dryer even though you don't.

It would be more difficult showing people that the neutral isn't needed.

The nameplate showing 240 60 Hz 3-wire makes everything legit.

What you really want is neutral and ground separated at the dryer. This can be done with a transformer. Electrical controls do this all the time. Maytag likely did it here.

[bauer09]

*UPDATE*

Just to let you all know - I connected this dryer with the black, red, and ground and taped off the neutral -- everything seems to be working just fine and the dryer has been in use for about a month now.

Thanks for the help...