[gmconley]

I recently purchased a 1998 honda accord v6 for my daughter. The car will stall not all the time when you are driving down the highway. You can be going 70 miles an hour and it totally shuts off with no warning. You have to let it set for a few minutes and then it will finally start. I had the ingnition switch replaced but this apprently was not the problem as I had it done yesterday and it died 3 times today on the highway on the way home. Please help.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The problem is likely related to failure in one of these components: main relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), or coil. Because of the age of the vehicle, I would replace all of them to ensure "like new" performance and reliability. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

The main relay is located left of the steering column. Turning the ignition key on and off will help you locate the main relay, by allowing you to hear and feel it "click." Main relays often have 7 wires going to them.

If you prefer, AutoZone can test the ICM and coil for free.

[Jim2007]

I recently purchased a 1998 honda accord v6 for my daughter. The car will stall not all the time when you are driving down the highway. You can be going 70 miles an hour and it totally shuts off with no warning. You have to let it set for a few minutes and then it will finally start. I had the ingnition switch replaced but this apprently was not the problem as I had it done yesterday and it died 3 times today on the highway on the way home. Please help.

I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX it also was running rough at low RPM's and just quit one day driving down the street. Checked it out and it had no spark would turn over easy but no spark. The problem was the Ignition Control Module. It cost $70.00 at Advance Auto Parts. It is an easy fix. Disconnect the battery cables. Remove air filter and air filter box so you have room to unscrew the three screws from the distributor to remove the distributor cap. One the distributor cap is removed take a flat screw driver and pry off the rotor from the shaft and remove the cover so you can get access to the inside of the distributor. You will see the Ignition Control Module there are two screws that hold it inside of the distributor the are located on the outside below the ICG Module unscrew the two screws and be careful not to strip them use a good phillips screw dirver and a lot of pressure on the screw as to not strip them. Once those two screws are unscrewed remove the four wires and be careful not to break the wires other wise you will have to sodder new wires. Once the wires are removed it will slide right out. Take and unscrew the two screws on the back of the ICG and remove the bracket you will need the bracket to install on the new ICG. Use the gel between the two medals so that it will not corrode later. Reinstall all parts in the reverse order that you removed them. This is a known problem and it will no doubt fix your starting problem. Easy fix only nine screws total.

[Jim2007]

There is a Recall from Honda on the Ignition Control Module also knows as the ICM. You may get them to fix it for you for free. If not it is an easy fix.