[homescool]

Hi,

I have a Frigidaire Gallery electric dryer about 6-7 yrs old. Model number FDE437GHS0.
About a year ago it started squealing for a few minutes then stop then became constant. We did research, found this wonderful sight and took it apart. The felt pads and plastic at top of drum looked worn so we replaced them. The belt looked worn so we replaced it. We cleaned it out and it was not to linty. It started the squeal about 6 months later so replaced the bearing kit in rear drum - it was missing a bearing. Worked fine for about 6 months. BTW, I clean it EVERY time a place a load in it and clean the vent with the long handled vent brush every month or so. Hubby cleans from the vent under dryer to outside once a year - My Sis had a dryer fire and we are paranoid. We have great flow to outside. About a month ago it started the squeak/squeal every now and then now constant and so SHRILL! It is also doing something we had not noticed before. It always got warm on the top right side under the timer knob but on the top part of the dryer - from under the knob to the front of the dryer. Never HOT just pretty warm.
Now it gets HOT! And after about 10-15 minutes it stops putting out heat but it still runs. Needless to say the shrill cry and the drying a load 5 time to get it dry is driving us ALL INSANE! :eek: :eek: PLEASE HELP! :confused:
Many thanks!
Homes

[KISS]

First of all there are so many places it can squeal. Have you identified the spot? Is there excess friction someplace? Did you lubercate the bearings when you installed them. www3.sears.com shows a high temperature lubercant in the parts list.

I'm not sure about this bearing, but when lubercating a non-sealed bearing, I'll use a latex covered gloved hand with some grease in it and try to force the "old grease"/grease out the other side.

I'm almost betting a few things:

1) Replace the bearing again, and this time lubercate it and the ejector fan.
2) Something is wrong with the fan that ejects the air. Belt, motor/fan friction. If it runs slower than it's supposed to, there will be higher temperature. Oops, that model is direct drive. Turn it by hand.
3) Lint around the control sensor. Lint has a habit of getting where it's least expected.

I'm still betting on lack of lubercation. Problems cascade from there.

[homescool]

Thank you for the info. We did grease the bearings as it came with the high temp grease etc.
Would it have run fine for over 6 months then start the squeal?
Actually, I should have mentioned we noticed it was taking longer to dry than before and this was PRE-squeal the second squealing event that is.
What is under the hood so to speak that would cause it to get so hot you can not touch the top of the dryer.
It used to get pretty warm - I would lay a damp sock to finish drying it or if I was lucke enough to find a $1 bill (when laundering my money):D , I would lay it there to dry it.
The entire top of the dryer does not or has never been hot to the touch. An area about 6 inches wide and from the control know to the front of the dryer on the right side - when facing the dryer is the area I am talking about. Now, it gets so hot you can not keep your hand on it for more than a second or 2. After about 10 minutes the heat shuts off but the dryer keeps running. It seems to be running at the same speed as before.
I turned the drum by hand as you suggested and it does indeed squeak.
I am wondering if there is some type of high limit switch or something that tells the heating elements or something to do with the heat to shut off if it gets too hot?
I am thinking:eek: I have at least 2 problems. - Grease or replace the bearings(would it be better to replace them again(they are 6 months old) or just grease them?
2nd problem - something is telling or making the heat shut off and making the top area I described get MUCH hotter than ever before.
THANK YOU very much for your help and FAST response!:D

Homes

[KISS]

Read item #3 again:

3) Lint around the control sensor. Lint has a habit of getting where it's least expected.

The schematic and parts breakdown at www3.sears.com show both a control and over temperature sensor. If these get covered with lint, the control element is effectively insulated. This then drives up the temperature, which in turn, contributes to pre-mature failure of the bearing.

Here is an article on lubercation: Best practices for lubrication

Pay attention to item #11.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/content/view/57/

You have a direct drive fan to check too. Be prepared to check it when it's cold and hot.

Print out the diagrams from the www3.sears.com site, using cut and paste to see what your up against.

[esquire1]

If too hot, and then shuts off heating, check the thermostats. The squeal many times is from a bad idler pulley