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    KBC's Avatar
    KBC Posts: 2,550, Reputation: 487
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    #1

    Sep 22, 2007, 02:13 PM
    1924 Model T
    I have a question on the ammeter,we have replaced it with a rebuilt (warranted and guaranteed) it seems to be OK,we have polarized it according to model t shops (and mfgr suggestions),we have been through the adjusting of the third brush.No change
    The ammeter doesn't show charge,ever.The meter does show discharge while the lights are on and the engine turning(on mag)
    Any ideas?


    *amendment -the part we replaced is the generator,with cut-out,not the ammeter,, sorry for the confusion
    CaptainRich's Avatar
    CaptainRich Posts: 4,492, Reputation: 537
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    #2

    Sep 22, 2007, 02:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KBC
    I have a question on the ammeter,we have replaced it with a rebuilt (warranted and guaranteed) it seems to be ok,we have polarized it according to model t shops (and mfgr suggestions),we have been through the adjusting of the third brush.No change
    The ammeter doesn't show charge,ever.The meter does show discharge while the lights are on and the engine turning(on mag)
    Any ideas?
    Do you have a voltage gauge as well, or only amperage?

    You could test operating voltage with a handheld multi-meter.
    KBC's Avatar
    KBC Posts: 2,550, Reputation: 487
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    #3

    Sep 22, 2007, 04:07 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainRich
    Do you have a voltage gauge as well, or only amperage?

    You could test operating voltage with a handheld multi-meter.


    Yes capy,we did test with a handheld,to no avail,the meter has continuity,the wires from a to b and b to c all have continuity,the meter just doesn't show charge,and we have to charge the battery(many times this summer)
    CaptainRich's Avatar
    CaptainRich Posts: 4,492, Reputation: 537
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    #4

    Sep 22, 2007, 04:42 PM
    Ah! I see your edit. No problem.

    It seems as if you've got a faulty generator.. Is it actually a generator (more "period"), or is it, more likely, a retro fitted alternator (preferred) with a built-in voltage regulator?

    What is your "key off" voltage compared to "engine running" voltage?

    Base battery voltage for a standard 12 volt system is actually 12.6 volts DC.

    With the engine running, revving slightly to around 2000 RPM, you should be able to see approx 14 volts, plus or minus a little. Any less than that and you may not be able to handle the vehicle loads : ignition system and brake lights, etc, let alone headlamp and wipers.
    KBC's Avatar
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    #5

    Sep 22, 2007, 05:30 PM
    Yes it's a generator of the period,and we will check the voltage soon
    Thanks,
    Ken
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    #6

    Oct 15, 2007, 05:56 PM
    Update.

    We have removed the generator and taken it to a local model t generator repair shop,his first impression was that it might have been just painted and sold to us as new(rebuilt)... HMMM

    More soon,
    Ken
    CaptainRich's Avatar
    CaptainRich Posts: 4,492, Reputation: 537
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    #7

    Oct 15, 2007, 06:03 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by KBC
    Update.

    We have removed the generator and taken it to a local model t generator repair shop,his first impression was that it might have been just painted and sold to us as new(rebuilt)...HMMM

    More soon,
    Ken
    I have heard of that.
    Keep us posted, Ken!
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    KBC Posts: 2,550, Reputation: 487
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    #8

    Oct 17, 2007, 06:16 AM
    So as we go ask the repair man about the condition of the generator(He's B/Sing over coffee with other enthusiasts) he says,"Yup,it looks like it was just painted,and the insides are questionable."

    As we walked out the door we noticed the piece sitting on the counter,in the same place it was last week,still in the cloth we wrapped it in,, :(

    Good service is VERY hard to come up with,even in the model t repair field.
    CaptainRich's Avatar
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    #9

    Oct 17, 2007, 06:23 AM
    What's your next step? Are they getting you another warranted and guaranteed generator? Or do you have the option of a refund?
    KBC's Avatar
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    #10

    Oct 17, 2007, 06:48 PM
    Well as I said,we are still waiting for the local 'expert' to do his true diagnosis.

    Typical small town mumbo jumbo,"Aww we'll get to it real soon,at least by next Tuesday"

    Didn't say what month that next Tuesday was in,right?

    And yes,we will,if we find it to be just a paint job,be getting a """""NEW"""""REBUILT"""" generator,or at least our investment back,then look for a reputable place to buy one.
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    CaptainRich Posts: 4,492, Reputation: 537
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    #11

    Oct 17, 2007, 06:52 PM
    Or the second Tuesday of next week! :eek:
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    #12

    Oct 17, 2007, 07:03 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainRich
    Or the second Tuesday of next week!! :eek:
    ;) typical... lol:rolleyes:
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    #13

    Oct 17, 2007, 07:06 PM
    Ken,
    Have you tried Hemming's or something like it?
    Hemmings Motor News: Auto Classifieds - Hemmings Auto Classifieds feature cars for sale nation wide.
    Maybe they have better options?
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    #14

    Oct 17, 2007, 07:44 PM
    Thanks capy:)
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    #15

    Oct 18, 2007, 08:41 PM
    Picked up the repaired unit today(Thursday) here is what he found.

    The screws mounting down the cut-off on the housing were too long,grounding/shorting the field coil.

    The fiber gasket at the rear of the unit(there is an adjustable brush inside)was an old warnout gasket,he rebuilt the gasket with felt and epoxy.

    Now I get to see if this works... Fingers crossed,If not EYES crossed.

    Thanks again for the site,It looks like I can get parts from lots of places there.

    PS,Father ran into the T and damaged the front drivers side fender,not much but its not pristine anymore,, got to fix that!!

    Ken

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