[Tiger77536]

I've read the postings on problems that various honda owners are having with their cars not wanting to start or stay running, also the parts about the main relay. My son hasn't been able to use his car all summer due to a similar problem, he has a 95 honda accord 4 cylinder, he drove it for 2 weeks and then it wouldn't start, we put it in the shop and they decided the hose going from the air filter to the throttle body was defective so it was replaced, the car had the same problem with it not wanting to start just one day after we got it home from the shop, we towed it back and they said the coil was bad, since this is built into the distributor, we found a new one with lifetime warranty, it was installed and ran again for a day, we took it back again and they suggested flushing the injectors, done and it ran again for only a day. After frustrations we took it to another shop, so far the radiator and upper & lower hose have been replaced, it would run good for 2 or 3 days then give problems starting and staying running, what was noticed is that when the car refuses to start the check engine light comes on, apparently for awhile leaving the ignition key on where the instrument lights would stay on and then disconnecting the battery would discharge the "factory alarm module", found under the steering column, the mechanic wanted to replace it but couldn't find a reasonable priced part that was in working condition and used, we finally brought the car home so my son could drive it and after just one day the problem popped up again, when you turn the ignition key the instrument lights would come on, also the check engine light, then it would go off and the car will start for about 5 seconds then the check engine light comes on and it kills the engine. I can hear the relay click as described by others in the forum but the car doesn't stay running. The fuel pump is fine, it gets spark and will start right on the first turn of the key but won't stay running longer than a few seconds. Any suggestions greatly appreciated, I would love to get this solved without having to take the car to a honda dealer (yet). :D

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. I suspect the ECM (computer) may be experiencing intermittent failure. Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. Check for codes.

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

[Tiger77536]

Txgreasemonkey, thank you very much for your quick reply. I'll check this ASAP within the next few days and will let you know what the results are. You can also e-mail me at [email protected].

[Tiger77536]

It's possible that I've found the problem. After reviewing a few sites and with the help of txgreasemonkey pointing to testing a component that might prove the ECM to be defective, I've found a good site that mentions various ECM's going bad due to a few components utilized, one of those being a Nichicon capacitor. After my son had to walk home again due to his car not wanting to start for the second day in a row, we decided to pull the ECM and I checked "under the hood" of the ECM and sure enough after removing the bottom cover I noticed a scorch or burn pattern and after removing the top cover I saw that a capacitor had blown and saw a large scorch or burn mark, the capacitor is made by Nichicon. We found a used ECM for about $100, the replacement took about 15 minutes and the car started fine. We'll see if this solves the problem. I'm going to find a replacement capacitor and attempt to repair the defective ECM and test it, if I'm successful then it's going into an anti-static bag and being put up as a spare for any future emergencies that might give the same problem.
You can find more information about ECM problems at:
ECM TECH INFO - FAQ - HOW TO KNOW YOU NEED AN ECM

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Good job! Yes, the capacitors are known to leak in the ECM of your 1995 Accord. If you feel the K-Test helped you, please update the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ht=k-test+poll

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Tegger at Tegger.com erroneously believes these Honda ECMs are "bullet proof." His cadre of "experts," who have worked in the industry for years, believe the same thing. My experience has been totally different.

According to Tegger, "Honda ECU failures are vanishingly rare, to the point of non-existence." This is his "softened" opinion on his new site, due to several emails we have exchanged, but he's very stubborn about this matter. I've shared with him my experience (several times this past year), where I've seen them fail around the world. It's a much bigger problem than he's willing to admit.

[Tiger77536]

Well great news so far, my son's car is running great, no problems and he's finally able to enjoy his vehicle. I greatly appreciate the great suggestions and help. My opinion about Tegger is that he apparently lives in a different world or he hasn't run across ECM's that have defective capacitors, I'm happy for him that he believes what he does and hasn't had problems, I just hope his bubble doesn't burst too soon. Txgreasemonkey, kudos and again, thanks a million.