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    ptnoble's Avatar
    ptnoble Posts: 42, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Jul 17, 2007, 04:23 PM
    Drain products
    What prodcut(s) do you all recommend for dissolving organic matter in slow drains?

    I know there is no replacement for a snake. However, there are several products out there that advertise "won't harm pipes." What's the best active ingredient to look for? Some use chemicals which reportedly only dissolve organic matter (and not the plastic or metal of the pipe). What's the best chemical: sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid, or? Others use enzymes or bacteria which do essentially the same thing. I am not on a septic system.
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
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    #2

    Jul 17, 2007, 04:44 PM
    There actually is somewhat of a replacement for the snake. Take apart all the pipes you can and manually clean them. Unless the slow-drain problem is deeper in the line, you'd be surprised how cleaning out the pipes that you can see and work with helps.

    XenoSapien
    ptnoble's Avatar
    ptnoble Posts: 42, Reputation: 1
    Junior Member
     
    #3

    Jul 17, 2007, 05:09 PM
    Well, I am specifically trying to find out about products that you pour into the drain.

    Partly, just for the knowledge. Partly because one of my slow drains is a bathtub.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #4

    Jul 17, 2007, 05:29 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ptnoble
    Well, I am specifically trying to find out about products that you pour into the drain.

    Partly, just for the knowledge. Partly because one of my slow drains is a bathtub.
    I'm one of those Plumbers who won't dirty his hands chasing 'Brown Trout'.

    That's kind of a crude way of saying I don't do service work, by the way.

    OTOH, I've had very good luck with the 'foaming Liquid Plumr' product when doing prep work for re-pipes and remodels.

    Just my two pence.
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
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    #5

    Jul 17, 2007, 05:38 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by iamgrowler
    I'm one of those Plumbers who won't dirty his hands chasing 'Brown Trout'.

    That's kind of a crude way of saying I don't do service work, btw.

    OTOH, I've had very good luck with the 'foaming Liquid Plumr' product when doing prep work for re-pipes and remodels.

    Just my two pence.
    Liquids generally only do so much. Cleaning it to the point where it's like a brand new pipe will do better than any liquid product, period.

    XenoSapien
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #6

    Jul 17, 2007, 06:11 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by XenoSapien
    Liquids generally only do so much. Cleaning it to the point where it's like a brand new pipe will do better than any liquid product, period.

    XenoSapien
    Sure, but your advice is contingent upon the pipes accessible for removal and cleaning -- Which pretty much narrows the scope down to the p-trap and tail piece of a sink (lavatory, laundry tub, bar sink or kitchen sink).

    And that covers what, about a foot and a half of piping?

    Don't get me wrong, Xeno, manually taking those pieces apart and giving them a thorough cleaning is a great place to start -- But there is a great deal more to cleaning out a drainage system than removing and manually cleaning the trap and trap arm.

    The Poster is speaking directly about a bath tub drain -- Exactly which parts of the drain would you recommend he remove to manually clean?

    If the tub is on the first floor with a crawlspace below, then the answer is obvious -- But what if it's on the first floor with a finished basement below?

    Or on the second, third or fourth floor with a finished ceiling below?

    Y'know, I *do* honestly feel bad for picking your advice apart -- But it's going to take awhile for you to live down that 'piece of paper' bit.
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
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    #7

    Jul 17, 2007, 06:48 PM
    Right. But the level of where the bathroom is located has never been mentioned by the poster. Second, the poster says, "partly because one of my drains is a bathtub" which clearly insinuates that he is also talking about two drains: a tub and a sink. The sink should be accessible, and I'd s*** a brick if that wasn't accessible.

    Again, you are right. It is more than cleaning out the pipes that are able to be cleaned, but let's look at the facts: most clogs are hair and hair products that love to build up on the stopper assembly, then migrate to the p trap, that only houses these undesireables. Take all these things out, take a paper towel and twist it around a large regular screw-driver, and shove it through every accessible pipe a plumber can access.

    XenoSapien
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #8

    Jul 17, 2007, 06:59 PM
    Probably the real plumbers will laugh at this one but I swear by it and its cheap. Mix 1/2 cup salt with 1/2 cup baking soda, dump dry mix in the drain. Add a cup of vinegar and stand back and watch the foaming. Allow to sit over night and flush with a bucket of the hottest what available.
    XenoSapien's Avatar
    XenoSapien Posts: 627, Reputation: 42
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    #9

    Jul 17, 2007, 07:03 PM
    Ya' know, ballengerb1, I heard about doing that. Baking soda is a remarkable product... :)

    XenoSapien
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #10

    Jul 17, 2007, 07:06 PM
    Yep, just don't stand over the drain when you add the vinegar. I don't know the ins and outs of the reaction but it really cuts the crap loose and the hot water doesn't hurt the next day.
    rangerdad's Avatar
    rangerdad Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #11

    Jul 17, 2007, 07:28 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ptnoble
    What prodcut(s) do you all recommend for dissolving organic matter in slow drains?

    I know there is no replacement for a snake. However, there are several products out there that advertise "won't harm pipes." What's the best active ingredient to look for? Some use chemicals which reportedly only dissolve organic matter (and not the plastic or metal of the pipe). What's the best chemical: sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid, or ?? Others use enzymes or bacteria which do essentially the same thing. I am not on a septic system.
    The best answer for this is to use mureatic acid. (i hope i spelled that right) you should ask a plumber to buy it, most states don't allow the full strength to be sold over the counter. Then make sure you understand how to use it before you start,
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #12

    Jul 17, 2007, 07:41 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by rangerdad
    THE BEST ANSWER FOR THIS IS TO USE MUREATIC ACID. (I HOPE I SPELLED THAT RIGHT) YOU SHOULD ASK A PLUMBER TO BUY IT, MOST STATES DONT ALLOW THE FULL STRENGTH TO BE SOLD OVER THE COUNTER. THEN MAKE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND HOW TO USE IT BEFORE YOU START,
    Actually, muriatic acid can form a lethal vapor when it comes into contact with certain soaps and detergents containing chlorine.

    Also, muriatic acid can and will react to the solvents and glues used to join plastic piping.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #13

    Jul 18, 2007, 07:24 AM
    Muriatic acid is already diluted when you buy it. In its purer form it is Hydrocloric acid and should NOT BE USED to clear drains. This is an unsafe idea and should not be spread around on this site. I hope Rangerdad has the good sense to go back to his post and edit it.

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