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jim-r-brown · Jul 11, 2007, 08:20 PM

I have read all the strings on this subject but need a little more information. I am getting an error code 8 which means that the TDC sensor is problematic. My manual told me to check the resistance between the C and B terminals on the 6 pin TDC connector on the distributor. This turned out to be 354 ohms and so it was OK. Next it told me to check for shorts from these 2 connectors to ground. There were no shorts and so that was OK too. Then it told me to install an ECU test harness and continue some more checks. I don't have a test harness. Is there another way to continue this check? Is there another way to check an error code 8? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 12, 2007, 07:52 AM

See if this works:

. Disconnect negative battery cable.
. Remove ECM's "B" connector.
. Measure connector resistance between, say, B13 and B14.

If you have not replaced the distributor before, you are long overdue. Go with a new Honda (not aftermarket) distributor housing. If you have thrown a Code 8, the odds are great that you need to replace the housing.

jim-r-brown · Jul 12, 2007, 02:15 PM

Thanks for your quick response. I went back out to the garage to test the ohms between B13 and B14 as you suggested. Before doing that, I decided to try your K Test. There was no voltage between the yellow wire and ground so I went to turn the key off before getting to the ECM. I decided to try to start the car one last time and it started! The check enging light came on and so I looked at the codes and saw that it was now blinking 3 and 8. When I looked it up, code 3 is the MAP sensor that I had not reconnected yet, duh!

Anyway it runs now but I don't believe that this is a permanent condition so I will continue with the diagnosis. I have never replaced the distributor in this car and it has about 150K miles on it now. You recommend changing the distributor housing. Exactly what do you mean? Is this just a bare distributor? I live in Canada and the local Honda dealer wants CDN$980 for a complete distributor. A bit steep for such an old car. An after market distributor is about 1/3 of that. What has been your experience with them?

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 12, 2007, 02:58 PM

The Honda distributor housing is everything, minus the igniter, coil, rotor, and distributor cap. In the U.S. a new Honda housing is probably around $140. Many on this site have had problems with new aftermarket distributors.

jim-r-brown · Jul 12, 2007, 04:21 PM

Thanks for sticking with me on this. I have 3 more questions

FIRST QUESTION -I realized I made a mistake on your K Test. I did it again and got just under 5 volts. Does this remove suspicion from the ECM?

SECOND QUESTION - Why will the engine run with the MAP Sensor disconnected?

THIRD QUESTION - Also I got a price for a HONDA distributor housing and it is CDN$550. I'm trying to get the car running so I can sell it for my daughter. What about a used one?

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 12, 2007, 04:26 PM

1. Yes.
2. I'm going to have to think about this one. I didn't think it would run. It's suppose to affect spark and fuel.
3. That should be fine.