[speakermaker]

I was attempting to snake/remove a bad street elbow in a basement sink/washing machine waste line. I leveraged against the hub where this line meets the cast fitting. I broke the hub from a double upright y with 1.5" side outlet cast iron waste fitting. The hub I snapped off was on the side outlet. The lines into and out of this cast fitting are galv. pipe. The uprights are 2" and 1.5" galv. and go up to the kitchen sink and 2nd floor bathroom sink/tub. I put a rubber test plug in the 1.5" hole to seal it temporarily while I weigh my options and so we can use the upstairs fixtures. It is a clean break. The side outlet didn't extend from the fitting. With the hub gone, there is only a hole flush to the rest of the fitting. Do I have any repair options on the 1.5" side outlet? Does the fitting have to come out? The house was built in 1941 and uses city sewers. I have some other waste line access points close by, but they are 2 feet up on the wall. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[scirocco70]

Wow!

That's a pretty good description, but maybe a pic would help too.

I'm NOT a plumber, but offhand the only thing I can think of would be a saddle-tap type thing.. like this:

Fernco, Inc.

You might be able to get that on there well enough to make it not leak, but it would be very temporary at best. Certainly not to code. Being upright will make it prone to leak. Nasty.

Better would be to replace the Y. You can still get cast iron, both hubbed and no-hub.

Or, cut the stack above and below (supporting stack with saddle clamps) and replace that section with PVC, using fernco-style connectors.

[speedball1]

"It is a clean break. The side outlet didn't extend from the fitting. With the hub gone, there is only a hole flush to the rest of the fitting. Do I have any repair options on the 1.5" side outlet? Does the fitting have to come out?"

And with those words you told me that a Fernco Coupling would have no place to connect to and you have no choice but to replace the fitting. You will also have to install unions on the threaded pipes before you can connect them to the wye.
Scirocco gaven you very good advice when he said,"Better would be to replace the Y. You can still get cast iron, both hubbed and no-hub.
Or, cut the stack above and below (supporting stack with saddle clamps) and replace that section with PVC, using fernco-style connectors."
Good luck, Tom

[speakermaker]

It didn't look too promising for repair. My thanks to you to both.

[labman]

Since Tom backs Scrocco on the PVC, I would go for it. Trying to take more of the old galvanized and cast apart is a good way to get into trouble. I have never gotten anything apart I couldn't get back together, but sometimes it was more work than I had planned.