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    dnail's Avatar
    dnail Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jun 16, 2007, 09:48 AM
    Dryer schematics
    I have a kenmore elite dryer that won't turn. Power is to the unit, timer works but no power getting to the motor... thoughts? I need a schematic for electrical runs
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #2

    Jun 16, 2007, 10:18 AM
    Door switch?
    Timer may have bad contacts.
    esquire1's Avatar
    esquire1 Posts: 2,483, Reputation: 209
    Ultra Member
     
    #3

    Jun 16, 2007, 10:38 AM
    Also, the thermal limit switch on the vent housing on back side of dryer. Just had on this week. It is non-resettable and if bad needs replaced. Pull on wire off it and check for continuity. If non it's bad. Easy fix and not expensive. If this is what is bad. Clean all vent tubing out good. Clogged tubing is what causes the vent to heat up and trip that switch
    ptoma2000's Avatar
    ptoma2000 Posts: 13, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #4

    Nov 5, 2007, 09:23 AM
    Hi,

    I am having a similar problem. Though I have had this problem in the past and it has miraculously resolved itself, I don't know that this problem does not require part replacement at this time.

    SO... According the electric wiring diagram there is a thermal cutoff (275"F). The part number listed in the tech sheet is 3977395.

    BUT when I look at sears.com and do a part search under the model of my dryer (100.70092991) I can not find a thermal cutoff anywhere. The good thing about their part search is they also show you a diagram of where the thing is supposed to be installed. So if I buy this particular part, I won't know where it goes.

    Am I assuming the right solution to my problem (thermal cutoff)? If so, is there any advice on where this part is to replace it?

    Thanks
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #5

    Nov 6, 2007, 07:22 AM
    Probably should be new post, since I have no control of that. I would look on the metal Duct that the Air blows through. Will have 2(usually)wires, with power off, and 1 wire removed. It should have Zero resistance. When it gets hot or goes defective, they open up.

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