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    TamaraGT's Avatar
    TamaraGT Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jun 19, 2007, 04:03 PM
    Venting a window air conditioner unit through a fireplace
    I live in a two story town home (plus a basement) with no central air conditioning.
    I don't own it, so I'm limited as to what I can do.
    On the 2nd floor I have two window air conditioner units that keep the 2nd floor cool.
    There are no windows on the first floor only the front door and the sliding glass door.
    I have 3 tower fans and a ceiling fan but no shade and the house still gets very hot.

    I found patents pending, but I need to do something now.
    How would I, and is it safe to set a window air conditioner unit in a fireplace, seal around it with plexiglass or insulating plastic (like for windows in the winter), and open the flue?

    Yep, I'm serious and with patents pending, someone else is too.
    So is this possible and safe?
    Would I need to worry about what little sute is in the fireplace or carbon monoxide?

    Thank you.
    esquire1's Avatar
    esquire1 Posts: 2,483, Reputation: 209
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    #2

    Jun 19, 2007, 04:15 PM
    I see your therory, but what do you plan to do with the condensate? The water that runs out of the back of the window unit?
    hvacservicetech_07's Avatar
    hvacservicetech_07 Posts: 1,083, Reputation: 75
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    #3

    Jun 19, 2007, 04:26 PM
    I think a portable air conditioner would best resolve this problem, they have a flex tube that you could vent through the fireplace and it also has a tub that catches condensation. This , in my opinion will look like crap, but would work.
    TamaraGT's Avatar
    TamaraGT Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #4

    Jun 20, 2007, 09:15 AM
    Condensation:
    I haven't seen any condensation on the two window units I have installed upstairs and one is over the sliding glass door, so I probably would have seen it.
    Could this be because I'm in Colorado (a very dry climate)?
    I would most likely put a shallow tray under the air conditioner just in case.

    Portable Evaporative Cooler:
    I thought of this as well, but they are generally big and cost much more than a window unit. They usually run in the $400 range, where I could get a window unit for under $100.
    But that might really be the way to go.
    esquire1's Avatar
    esquire1 Posts: 2,483, Reputation: 209
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    #5

    Jun 20, 2007, 10:07 AM
    Anytime an A/C unit runs it is removing condesation. You will have water running out of it at sometime. You might not notice it but put the unit inside and you will have a mess on your hands. You will need some way to get rid of it. What happens if you are gone from some time and not there to empty the tray? These are just my thoughts, not the best way to go. Like hvacservicetech 07 mention,the portable unit would be the best under these circumstances
    bkspero's Avatar
    bkspero Posts: 33, Reputation: 2
    Junior Member
     
    #6

    Jun 20, 2007, 04:58 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TamaraGT
    Condensation:
    I haven't seen any condensation on the two window units I have installed upstairs and one is over the sliding glass door, so I probably would have seen it.
    Could this be because I'm in Colorado (a very dry climate)?
    I would most likely put a shallow tray under the air conditioner just in case.

    Portable Evaporative Cooler:
    I thought of this as well, but they are generally big and cost much more than a window unit. They usually run in the $400 range, where I could get a window unit for under $100.
    But that might really be the way to go.
    TamaraGT, your second note specifies a portable evaporative cooler. Just to clarify, I think that others are referring to a portable compression/expansion air conditioner. The type that does cost about $400.

    But your suggestion of an evaporative cooler may be a good one in a very dry environment, as it would both cool the space and raise the humidity to a more comfortable level. I did a Google search of portable evaporative cooler and it came up with a bunch for between 100 and 200 dollars. Plus the energy consumption will be well below a conventional AC.
    NorthernHeat's Avatar
    NorthernHeat Posts: 1,455, Reputation: 132
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    #7

    Jun 21, 2007, 06:21 PM
    Simply put, It will work like crap. The condenser fan motor is not aggressive enough in a window unit to push the heat up the small opening in the chimney like you think. Your head pressure will be sky high, the refrigerant will flash before the metering device, it my work somewhat, but not for long.
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #8

    Jun 22, 2007, 02:07 AM
    Just my 2 cents worth.

    The setup you are talking about doing will do nothing but recirculate the heated air off the condenser of the unit. This will inturn cause high head pressure which will cause the unit that was placed in the fireplace to basically destroy itself after a period. The window type units need a constant supply of outdoor ambient air or air that does have some movement capabilities so the heat can be removed.

    As a certified building inspector/mechanical inspector in the state of Ohio I would not pass this install because it does not meet the requirements for the install instructions or the code.

    Personally I do not care where you put your air conditioner. You will soon find out weather it works or not.

    BTW three years ago we did have a body count caused by burnt refrigerant. It was at a frozen pizza manufacturer. They were working on a substantial leak down near the gas fired boiler area. Needless to say the refrigerant came into contact with live flame. There was no explosion but after one breath they got lung lock and could not leave the area. There should have been a safety man with a air pack watching them but it was the pizza factory repair men and they are not to bright sometimes when it comes to the rules and regs.

    Refrigerant (trade name freon by Dupont chemical company) will not react and turn poisonous unless it is burnt by an open flame. Refrigerant in a high enough concentration will cause a loss of oxygen in the area and passing out.
    NorthernHeat's Avatar
    NorthernHeat Posts: 1,455, Reputation: 132
    Ultra Member
     
    #9

    Jun 22, 2007, 03:30 PM
    If you all can't be somewhat nice, courteous and polite, I will delete every post you guys post, you all know who I mean. You can disagree with some degree of courtesy, can you not. The ratings you are throwing at each other is just moronic.

    Have a nice day
    TamaraGT's Avatar
    TamaraGT Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #10

    Jun 25, 2007, 08:51 AM
    Thank you very much, because I was beginning to think that griping people out was part of the way this site worked.

    When I came to this site I had no idea what I was asking would work or not. When I found two pending patents I thought this could work, but I didn't know, that's why I asked. I didn't know there were potential dangers, again that's why I asked... before I had even purchased anything.

    In any case, thank you all very much for the advice. I did find a portable evaporative cooler for $90 and a discount code and $5 shipping, so I only paid $70. I only wish it was already here. It was 100 yesterday and today is expected to be 99 degrees.

    And just a side note, IF I would have done the ac in the fireplace, I would have tested for carbon monoxide, but I wouldn't have had any idea about the coolant. For that, I appreciate the information, it could have just been said more politely.

    Are there any concerns with portable evaporative coolers I should know about?

    Quote Originally Posted by NorthernHeat
    If you all can't be somewhat nice, courteous and polite, I will delete every post you guys post, you all know who I mean. You can disagree with some degree of courtesy, can you not. The ratings you are throwing at each other is just moronic.

    Have a nice day
    esquire1's Avatar
    esquire1 Posts: 2,483, Reputation: 209
    Ultra Member
     
    #11

    Jun 25, 2007, 10:37 AM
    This post was rare that things got the way it did. Normally, when folks disagree it is in a professional manor. This is a great site for info. Please come back when you have other questions. Many here enjoy helping others and giving back what we know. We all give the best, safest and most accurate advice we can.
    ton_ty2275's Avatar
    ton_ty2275 Posts: 41, Reputation: 6
    Junior Member
     
    #12

    Jun 25, 2007, 09:34 PM
    I'll render my advice to you also-----You will have to be inventive on this one.

    You can attempt a "professional bootleg" installation. In the "hood" when I was younger---we could not afford the window A/C which actually fit our window---thus, we bought the smaller one and improvised.

    If I were you I would use the sliding glass door like a window. Placing the A/C unit on the floor between the sliding door and the frame. You are likely to have 3- 4 feet of space in which you would need to fill with wooden boards.

    You would measure the height and width of the space that you need to fill---regardless of the A/C size. Cut a piece of plywood at least 1/2 inch longer on each angle than needed. I know this sounds a bit gory--but, Home depot sells this thin but rugged plywood in colors! White, blue, pink etc. Get the color cut to size and you would need 1-2 extra people to assist. Purchase 4 pieces of the plywood per measurement (height/width) for indoors and outdoors. Most people just secure the outdoor portion, but any preference is OK.
    You can have different colors inside and out! Pink will match your room and white can match the house perhaps!

    Wedge the A/C between the door opening to hold in place where you want it---even if vertically or horizonatlly installed the air will circulate. The plywood would need to be "welded" with Industrial Strength Adhesive (Clear preferrably), which is waterproof and bonds metal to wood and plastics wonderfully.

    Place and Bond the wood where you would normally attach the A/C extensions (which are not long enough anyways). You can also place Installation material between the boards for extra efficiency and energy saving (preferrably)

    The wood serves as extra security, rather than mere plastic extensions. Be sure to place a stick between the sliing portion of the door ( to be used as a lockin device) so that the door can not be opened from the outside.

    Also, place a little bonding glue around the A/C unit and the window opening for added security of the window unit. This also beats replacing the central cooling system,
    And can aid as a temporary relief during the summer months.

    Hope this helps, let us know.
    Tomy M. Hall, MS
    ton_ty2275's Avatar
    ton_ty2275 Posts: 41, Reputation: 6
    Junior Member
     
    #13

    Jun 25, 2007, 09:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TamaraGT
    Thank you very much, because I was beginning to think that griping people out was part of the way this site worked.

    When I came to this site I had no idea what I was asking would work or not. When I found two pending patents I thought this could work, but I didn't know, that's why I asked. I didn't know there were potential dangers, again that's why I asked ... before I had even purchased anything.

    In any case, thank you all very much for the advice. I did find a portable evaporative cooler for $90 and a discount code and $5 shipping, so I only paid $70. I only wish it was already here. It was 100 yesterday and today is expected to be 99 degrees.

    And just a side note, IF I would have done the ac in the fireplace, I would have tested for carbon monoxide, but I wouldn't have had any idea about the coolant. For that, I appreciate the information, it could have just been said more politely.

    Are there any concerns with portable evaporative coolers I should know about?
    I'll render my advice to you also-----You will have to be inventive on this one.

    You can attempt a "professional bootleg" installation. In the "hood" when I was younger---we could not afford the window A/C which actually fit our window---thus, we bought the smaller one and improvised.

    If I were you I would use the sliding glass door like a window. Placing the A/C unit on the floor between the sliding door and the frame. You are likely to have 3- 4 feet of space in which you would need to fill with wooden boards.

    You would measure the height and width of the space that you need to fill---regardless of the A/C size. Cut a piece of plywood at least 1/2 inch longer on each angle than needed. I know this sounds a bit gory--but, Home depot sells this thin but rugged plywood in colors! White, blue, pink etc. Get the color cut to size and you would need 1-2 extra people to assist. Purchase 4 pieces of the plywood per measurement (height/width) for indoors and outdoors. Most people just secure the outdoor portion, but any preference is OK.
    You can have different colors inside and out! Pink will match your room and white can match the house perhaps!

    Wedge the A/C between the door opening to hold in place where you want it---even if vertically or horizonatlly installed the air will circulate. The plywood would need to be "welded" with Industrial Strength Adhesive (Clear preferrably), which is waterproof and bonds metal to wood and plastics wonderfully.

    Place and Bond the wood where you would normally attach the A/C extensions (which are not long enough anyways). You can also place Installation material between the boards for extra efficiency and energy saving (preferrably)

    The wood serves as extra security, rather than mere plastic extensions. Be sure to place a stick between the sliing portion of the door ( to be used as a lockin device) so that the door can not be opened from the outside.

    Also, place a little bonding glue around the A/C unit and the window opening for added security of the window unit. This also beats replacing the central cooling system,
    And can aid as a temporary relief during the summer months.

    Hope this helps, let us know.
    Tomy M. Hall, MS

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