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    Scotsman's Avatar
    Scotsman Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Sep 15, 2005, 05:16 PM
    Uneven flange below floor
    When I am facing the wall with the fresh water supply line - here is the situation in the house I just moved into.

    The back tip of the toilet flange is level with the floor and the other half is about 1 and 1/2 inches below the floor level.

    The flange is 3inch PVC. One side of the flange is broken. The old owners had placed a cast iron flange on top of it and screwed that flange in to the old one.

    What to do? The flange is fused to the pipe. I know nothing about separating them.
    Scotsman's Avatar
    Scotsman Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #2

    Sep 15, 2005, 05:18 PM
    Forgot to mention. This is a concrete floor covered with vinyl in the basement of a bilevel.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #3

    Sep 16, 2005, 05:23 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Scotsman
    When I am facing the wall with the fresh water supply line - here is the situation in the house I just moved into.

    The back tip of the toilet flange is level with the floor and the other half is about 1 and 1/2 inches below the floor level.

    The flange is 3inch PVC. One side of the flange is broken. The old owners had placed a cast iron flange on top of it and screwed that flange in to the old one.

    What to do? The flange is fused to the pipe. I know nothing about separating them.
    Hey Scotty.

    You have several options open to you. You may take the cement up around the closet stub-up and cut the cocked raiser and closet bend all the way back to where it can be leveled and then redo the closet bend and raiser and bring it out of the ground level. Then you can place a styrofoam closet wrapper around the stub-up and patch the floor.
    But there's a much easier way if the cast iron flange is secure and still useable and this is the way I would advise if this were my call.
    You say the old PVC flange is cocked so that 1 1/2" is beneath the floor line?
    Since the toilet bowl has a 3" throat that directs the discharge this will get the flush past the old flange and into the main sewer line. As added insurance I would use a wax ring with a funnel. I see no reason to go to the added expense and hassle of tearing up your floor if the job can be done with out it. If the cast iron flange's secured to the floor it's acceptable to use it.
    Good luck, Tom

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