[Rvlec]

I loosened the bolt at the fuel rail that comes from the fuel filter. There was fuel there but not a heavy flow. Should this fuel be under pressure and stream out? It was only a little dribble--I even took the nut off completely. The car did start again but cut right back off. Fuel pump hums when switch is turned on, then stops and I hear click from main relay. Do you think the problem is in the fuel filter?

[Rvlec]

THANKS TXGREASEMONKEY!! I got my 1993 honda accord running. I don't know if it was 'flooded' or the battery power was just not quite up to par. I took the nut off the fuel rail and made sure I was getting fuel. Put it back on an jump-boosted with my other vehicle. I knew the electrical stuff needed to be replaced because I wasn't getting a spark before I replaced those parts. I should have replaced the ignitor first, like you suggested. But the car was probably due for coil,distributor, rotor etc.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Good job! I'm really glad you solved the problem. Yes, I would definitely replace the fuel filter, since the pressure should be 40 to 47 psi. What your described was far below that.

P.S. Remove your battery and fully charge it. Jumping modern-day cars is playing with fire--it's too easy to damage the ECM, alternator, and other sensors. Clean battery terminals and cable connections.

You did not waste money replacing the components you did--now you should have restored "like new" reliability and performance.

Victory came and now you join the ranks of other do-it-yourselfers, saving yourself a bundle in the process. Now, you have the satisfaction of doing it yourself--there's a tangible before and after.

I know money is tight these days. Still, don't scrimp on lubricants--use the best (synthetics) in your engine and transmission. If you take care of the engine and transmission, everything else is relatively small and won't be a
Total disaster to your personal budget. Here are some tips to help you play "good defense" and protect your budget:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219991

[Marie Cullifer]

I replaced the iginitor, fuel pump, main relay assemble, new coil, still don't crank.

[belle83]

The same thing happened to mine and it was the alternator...

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Marie, if it cranks but won't start, make sure the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If not, the ECM may have failed. If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, and the starter motor cranks but the engine does not start, focus on the distributor. If you installed the new igniter and coil in an aftermarket distributor housing (i.e. not a genuine Honda distributor housing), that may be the problem. Most aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD. Install your igniter and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing and your car should start.

[freddyndiego]

I replaced igniter, and just got my honda back he said the fuel silter has never been changed now it stillk won't start has a new disteributer cap also don't no why it keeps dying? It starts but dies?

[freddyndiego]

I meen fuel filter sorry I'm 22 year old girl and don't no much about cars but I no I exsasted a lot of money and time and don't no what to do now

[TxGreaseMonkey]

freddyndiego, if the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Since you have already replaced the igniter inside the distributor, I would replace the coil. If the problem still persists, I would install your new igniter in a genuine Honda distributor housing. It may be that one of the internal distributors is failing, such as the Crankshaft Position Sensor. This is fairly common. Honda distributors tend to only last 50,000 to 100,000 miles. Don't buy an aftermarket distributor, because most of them have not worked at AMHD.