Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #21

    Apr 23, 2008, 09:46 AM
    I don't think there are electrical issues, but there MAY be some comfort issues down the line, I think.

    Generally when your heating, you (the thermostat) might turn off the heater a little early and let the temperature drift up. There is then some amount of hysteresis in which nothing happens. I'm exagerating: Setpoint - 70. System turns on at 68, off at 70 and possibly drifts up a little to 71.

    When in cooling mode , the system generally turns off faster.

    You have to live with it and some babysitter will freak out that the "Heater is on in the summer". It's up to you.

    I looked at some of the Zonefirst dampers and they are either a) Power open/power closed or power closed/normally open.

    So you appear to have power open/power closed which is the hard one to deal with. I guess if the simple stat was a heat only stat, it makes sense.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #22

    Apr 23, 2008, 10:32 AM
    Do that quick test and get back with the results.

    Simple to fix on paper.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #23

    Apr 23, 2008, 12:29 PM
    Operation of one stat:

    Suppose a relay coil is connected to where cool belongs. This now activates an SPDT relay.

    The HOT of a 24 V transformer would go to the common of the relay contact and the normally open contact would go to the side of the damper that would open the damper. The normally closed side would go the side of the damper that closes the damper. The common of the transformer would return to the Common side of the damper.

    Now a cooling contact closure opens the damper and an open closes the damper.

    Now connect the FAN terminal to the air handler and compressor and it works, but it isn't right either.

    If you re-draw this circuit using a DPDT relay, the FAN terminal and the cool contact, you can get the Fan switch to just turn on the air handler, Cool to turn on the fan and the air handler and cool to open the damper. If you use the same transformer for the dampers and the AC system, then there is no danger that both dampers are closed and the AC and Fan are on.

    I'd have to try to draw it.
    KISS's Avatar
    KISS Posts: 12,510, Reputation: 839
    Uber Member
     
    #24

    Apr 24, 2008, 10:58 PM
    I completed the schematic of how I think it should be wired as a .PDF file. This gave me sme encouragement to play with a PCB layout program. What's not shown is the operation of Fan/Auto which I will assume the state of that switch is an input to the thermostat.

    When the stat is configured properly, a cool call will automatically result in a fan call. Anytime the fan is on, only the respective damper is open.

    I hope you understand it.
    Attached Images
  1. File Type: pdf Tstat with dampers V5.pdf (20.9 KB, 224 views)

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

How to wire 3 wire 2 zone cooling only to Honeywell thermostat [ 10 Answers ]

I currently have two zones for cooling only and the thermostat wires are red, blue and white. The red is labeled Rc which is easy, the white is labeled W Heat (this doesn't make sense to me) and the blue is labeled cool? What I think I need to do is connect the red to the Rc on the thermostat,...

Replacing 6 wire thermostat with 5 wire thermostat [ 3 Answers ]

I currently have a Magic Chef Model 34154C001 thermostat for an electrical heating and cooling system. This model has 6 wires included: W - White R - Red G - Green Y - Yellow O - Orange C - Black I purchased a Honeywell RTH230B programmable thermostat that only has 5 connections. The...

Hooking up a new thermostat but old thermostat has a white and a black wire? [ 2 Answers ]

Everything I look at indicates a white and red wire for the connecting wires. Our thermostat is probably original to our home (1943). It has two wires. It is difficult to tell but it looks like one is a white wire and the other is black. I've tried looking on the internet for some info however...

5-wire thermostat - LOST a few wire labels. HELP! [ 2 Answers ]

I am installing a programmable thermostat (upgrading from a previous programmable that wasn't to our liking. When taking the old thermostat off, I noticed 4 of the 5 wires were labelled. That's a good thing. HOWEVER, when I took the old baseplate off, 2 of the labels fell off (not sure from...

Wiring a 2 wire thermostat to a 4 wire system [ 1 Answers ]

I have a gas furnace equipped with central air.The compressor is shot in the AC unit,and I needed to replace the thermostat so I bought a heating only thermostat.I have the blower and the w wires together on the w terminal designation and the rh on the r terminal designation, and I have the y wire...


View more questions Search