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    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #21

    Nov 17, 2007, 08:29 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by shavetail
    Thank you for all the help. Here's my latest drawing. I switched around WC_1 and BT_1 so that BT_1 wasnt' boxing in BT_2 (thank you desgrunner).
    Personally, I didn't see much wrong with how you had the tubs situated before.

    I'm not altogether clear about desgrunner's concerns about access to the back of BT_2. Access is always nice, but it certainly isn't required -- And if you use solvent welded Sch 40 waste and overflows like a Geberit or a Tap-Toe, then you need not worry about concealing Slip-Joint connections.

    How far below finish floor should I stay with my building drain (the 3" main drain)?
    That depends on the depth needed for your furthest away trap -- 18" below grade would be optimum, but it could probably be much less, depending on how long the run is.

    THis is all going to an ejector pump in a 30 gallon plastic basin in a window well.
    If the bottom of the window well is higher than the basement floor, which most are, you're going to have to bury that ejector basin mighty deep.

    Is locating the ejector basin in the laundry room an option?

    And don't forget -- The ejector basin needs it's own vent run all the way up through the roof -- No tying into existing vents if you want this set-up to function properly.
    shavetail's Avatar
    shavetail Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #22

    Nov 17, 2007, 10:27 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by iamgrowler
    That depends on the depth needed for your furthest away trap -- 18" below grade would be optimum, but it could probably be much less, depending on how long the run is.
    Coming from the ejector pump at 1/4" per foot I end up about 11 inches below finish floor between BT_2 and WC_1 (at the far north). Is that pushing my luck to far?

    Quote Originally Posted by iamgrowler
    If the bottom of the window well is higher than the basement floor, which most are, you're going to have to bury that ejector basin mighty deep.
    I acutally dug that window well quite deep--the bottom of it is about four feet below finish grade.

    Thanks!
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #23

    Nov 17, 2007, 11:08 AM
    Coming from the ejector pump at 1/4" per foot I end up about 11 inches below finish floor between BT_2 and WC_1 (at the far north). Is that pushing my luck to far?
    If you're allowed to wet vent in your neck of the woods, then it'll probably be fine, but Tom, Doug or James will have to tell you if your fixture placement is doable.

    We don't allow wet venting here on the Left Coast -- Each trapped fixture must have it's own vent, and if you're posting from anywhere on the Left Coast, then 11 inches isn't going to do it.
    shavetail's Avatar
    shavetail Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #24

    Nov 18, 2007, 06:25 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by iamgrowler
    If you're allowed to wet vent in your neck of the woods, then it'll probably be fine, but Tom, Doug or James will have to tell you if your fixture placement is doable.

    We don't allow wet venting here on the Left Coast -- Each trapped fixture must have it's own vent, and if you're posting from anywhere on the Left Coast, then 11 inches isn't going to do it.
    Can you help me understand that? I think I understand the concept of wet venting (drain line of fixture A is vent line for fixture B, right?) but I can't figure out how if I am able to wet vent then I'll have more room to play with on my main drain.

    Thanks!
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    plumberjames83 Posts: 99, Reputation: 5
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    #25

    Nov 18, 2007, 09:10 AM
    from the looks of the "basment rough in part 3 " ( I hope you can tell which one I'm looking at its where you fliped the tub and toilet) catch wc 1 that is the start of the whole thing get it in the wall then lay you a 3x 1/12 on its back run it up as a vent... next catch bt2 with a 3x2 wye you might have to make it into a combo then catch wc2 on a 3" combo or wye ..... noiw on the line that has lav 1 run it in 3inch wye of and catch bt1 and then have a 3x2 catch the wash machine and vent this line using a 2x 1/1/2 x 2 tee as you catch the drain and come up in the wall be sure to use a 2" p-trap onn this not 1 1/2 run 1 1/2 vent up then catch lav1 on a 2inch line in the slab you will run that line into the back of the 3x2 wye that sereved the W/M using a 3x2 bushing... anyway run 2" up in the wall catch sink on a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tee run 1 1/2 vent up and tie the w/m and lav1 vent to gether in a circut vent this way you are now "well vented"
    going on tie lav 1 and lav 2 together useing a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2x 1 1/2 cross run 1 1/2 vent up posibily tie that vent together to another one of your vents that you have already run uo to minimize your roof penitratetions. now as far as your floor drain you can ite it in together to the main line but you must get a specail floor drain with a tap in it to put a water line to it ( as of right now i have had a brain fart and cannot think oif its name the floor drain has a specail name )
    or you can run the floor drain out seperate of everything else outside the house . or you can delete it altogether to make it easy.


    cathc K/S on a 3x2 waye run 2" over into the slab turn up catch sink on a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 san tee run 1 1/2 vent up possibily tie together to other vents you need to rough K/S
    10" to the left or right of center of sink
    then rundrain to pump
    if I were you I would check local code to see if thy will let you run pex or soft copper in the slab if so this would be a good time to run your water while the ditch is open... that's all for now I guess hit me back on that
    shavetail's Avatar
    shavetail Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #26

    Nov 18, 2007, 05:27 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    from the looks of the "basment rough in part 3 " ( i hope you can tell which one i'm looking at its where you fliped the tub and toilet)
    Yep
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    catch wc 1 that is the start of the whole thing get it in the wall
    OK
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    then lay you a 3x 1/12 on its back run it up as a vent
    OK, does it matter if it is upstream or downstream of the WC_1?
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    next catch bt2 with a 3x2 wye you might have to make it into a combo
    When you say combo you mean a wye 1/8 bend combo, right? So the fitting ends up doing a full 90?
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    then catch wc2 on a 3" combo or wye
    OK
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    now on the line that has lav 1 run it in 3inch wye of and catch bt1 and then have a 3x2 catch the wash machine and vent this line using a 2x 1/1/2 x 2 tee as you catch the drain and come up in the wall be sure to use a 2" p-trap on this not 1 1/2 run 1 1/2 vent up then catch lav1 on a 2inch line in the slab you will run that line into the back of the 3x2 wye that served the W/M using a 3x2 bushing
    OK, I think I got all that. I’m going to box out under my tubs before I pour the concrete floor, how big should I box out?
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    anyway run 2" up in the wall catch sink on a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tee run 1 1/2 vent up and tie the w/m and lav1 vent together in a circuit vent this way you are now "well vented"
    OK, got that
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    going on tie lav 1 and lav 2 together useing a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2x 1 1/2 cross run 1 1/2 vent up posibily tie that vent together to another one of your vents that you have already run up to minimize your roof penitratetions
    You lost me there. I know I need to vent lavs 2 and 3, I was going to vent them both and tie together above the ceiling.. .
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    now as far as your floor drain you can ite it in together to the main line but you must get a special floor drain with a tap in it to put a water line to it
    I was going to run the floor drain to the branch line that the kitchen sink is on—is that OK? Are you talking about one with a plug in it that you can pull to bypass the trap and clean out the line? I saw one like that.. .
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    catch K/S on a 3x2 wye run 2" over into the slab turn up catch sink on a 2x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 san tee run 1 1/2 vent up possibily tie together to other vents you need to rough K/S 10" to the left or right of center of sink
    OK
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    if i were you i would check local code to see if thy will let you run pex or soft copper in the slab if so this would be a good time to run your water while the ditch is open
    I was going to run pex through the ceiling (joists in the basement lid) then down through the walls rather than in the floor.. .
    Quote Originally Posted by plumberjames83
    thats all for now i guess hit me back on that
    Thank you!
    plumberjames83's Avatar
    plumberjames83 Posts: 99, Reputation: 5
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    #27

    Nov 18, 2007, 06:26 PM
    question 1 : down stream of toilet 1 right after to reliveit because it is a mjor need to vent it first

    question 2: yes combo is also known as a wye plus a 1/8 bend

    question 3: we (plumbers) use showers boxes designed for this propose you can get them at your local plumbing supply they are made by oatey or you can frame out I would frame out 12 x12
    question 4: you can vent and drain the 2 lavs spererate I guess the way I was going to do it would save time and materail by bringing the stack up in the middle...

    you need a floor drain with a "trap primer" ( that's what it is called) no if's and's or but's if you want a floordrain tied into the sanitary drain... and you must runa water line to it... end of story... sorry not many options here I would get a plumber to hook that part up

    hope this helps answer the few questions

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