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Mmm... what fuse are you talking about when you say fuse #31

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ooddiagram.jpg

[TxGreaseMonkey]

There should be 4 fuses along the back row of the under-hood fuse box. Fuse No. 31 is the 15 amp fuse on the left. It controls power to the PGM-FI Main Relay.

On your photo, it says 15A ECU.

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Just checked it... was working fine

I put a new one in just to be sure... still nothing

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Is the 7.5 amp Starter Signal fuse in the under-dash fuse box good?

I always use a test light or multimeter to test power "through the fuse" (both test points), when the ignition is turned to ON. Have you done this?

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Yep just changed it and I did checked all fuses with the key turned on and there all OK

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Since all fuses test fine, I'm inclined to suspect the ignition switch, since you are not getting power to Terminal 6 of the main relay connector. Still, I don't understand why jumping Terminals 5 and 7 doesn't cause the fuel pump to run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON. It's either the ignition switch, again, or the fuel pump is bad. If it's the fuel pump, it will be the first Honda fuel pump that I've seen be bad.

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Fuel pump is fine because I just checked it... I hookep it up to a batterie and it ran fine.

If I change the ignition switch, do I have to get a new key?

One thing I don't understand... why can I hear all 3 clicks if the ignition switch is messed up?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

No, you don't need to get a new key at all--just the switch and harness. They normally cost around $65.

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I hope your right... ill go to the scrapyard tomorrow and we'll see from there

But I still don't understand how it can be faulty since ALL electrical on the car are working fine (ecu, radio, light etc... )

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Don't buy one yet. Check out the old one first:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

Look for visible signs of wear, pitting, or melting.

Your switch may work on Position II but not when it's turned to START. You just need to check it out first. Other than this, I don't know much else to suggest. It's obvious you have a power issue. The only other option is to start performing continuity checks on the wiring harness.

The ignition switch and harness plugs into the Main Harness and into the under-dash fuse box.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Is your new main relay an exact match to the old one?

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No but the one I got at the dealship is the new one... but with a different code

Anyway I've check the ignition switch and everything seems fine... no melting or sign or failure

One my friend who works at honda might come today to check the bloody wiring (he think that the fuel pump isn't getting power)

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Wich wire connext the fuel pump to the main relay?

Ill try something tonight... ill just put a brand new wire from the really to the fuel pump but first I need to ned wich connections if the fuel pump in the main relay connector (dont ask me about the colors... I'm color blind)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Terminal 7 goes to the fuel pump.

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Is there a way I can check if I get 12 volts to the connector and then check the wire... before I start cutting I want to check everything

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OK here are the results... I put the positive behind the connector with the fule pump wire and when I turned the key to on I got my 12 volts with the clicks

But when I want at the end of the fuel pump pulg and did the same test.. I got 0 volts

So should I just trhwo a new wire?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I think you should wait until your Honda friend can look at it for you. What I previously posted would not work, which is why I deleted it.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Disconnect the main relay connector.

1. Check for continuity between connector terminal 2 and body ground. If none, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the main relay ground at the thermostat housing.

2. What voltage do you get when you measure the voltage between connector terminal 1 and body ground? If none, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the ECU (15 A) fuse.

I'm still convinced you have a problem getting battery voltage to the main relay.

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I get 12-13 volts

[TxGreaseMonkey]

That's good. Check for continuity between connector terminal 2 and body ground. If none, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the main relay ground at the thermostat housing.