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    fcandreasson's Avatar
    fcandreasson Posts: 9, Reputation: 2
    New Member
     
    #1

    Nov 6, 2007, 03:25 PM
    Tub Drains Slowly
    I recently changed the plumbing for a tub-shower from the old galvanized pipes to ABS pipes. I changed the entire drain from the Overflow to P-trap, vent connection and past the sinks.
    Everything seems fine, I pretty much configured it in the same way the old pipes had been, but it drains pretty slowly.

    I used 1 1/2 inch pipes, and I think there is enough slope to the entire drain.
    There is certainly no clogs as the pipes are new.

    I did a test by filling a 5 gallon bucket with water, poured it into the tub, and it took 62 seconds for it to completely drain, vs only 28 seconds fror the 5 gallons to drain from my kitchen sink, which has a 1 1/4 inch pipe.

    It drains evenly slow (if that makes sense).
    I removed the overflow puck to see if that blocked anything, but it didn't change it at all.
    The only thing I could guess would be if it is clogged further down the pipe.
    Would "not enough slope" create this problem?

    Any suggestions would help!

    Thank you!
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    Nov 6, 2007, 05:49 PM
    Your slope needs to ba 1/4 "per foot, how long does the pipe run before catching the main drain line? Hope you aren't missing anything like a ring or some screws. You could have dislodged some debris when you broke the old connection but that should not come into play if you replaced everything all the way to the main drain. Short of any better answer try plunging while covering the overflow with a wet rag. Another home fix is mix equal parts 1/4 cup baking soda and 1/4 cup table salt and dump down the drain, the add a cup of vinegar and allow to sit over night. Try your bucket of very hot water in the morning, less than 62 seconds?
    fcandreasson's Avatar
    fcandreasson Posts: 9, Reputation: 2
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    #3

    Nov 6, 2007, 06:02 PM
    Thanks!
    After replacing the pipes, I actually increased the slope because the P-trap was coming down in the basement. (It was visible below the basement ceiling level), and it drained better before. The drain goes about 3 feet, then makes a 90 degree turn, but I made it longer with two 45* turns. It then connects with the double sink drain and continues about another 5 ft before hitting the Main Stack.
    I couldn't access the last part of the drain before the main stack, so I never replaced that, but it looked fine. Major rust had built up in the P-trap and in the 90* turn of the old pipe, so I figured the drainage should have been improved... but so far I was wrong.

    Would it matter that the P-trap for the tub is closer to the actual drain? I think I moved up the P-trap about 2 inches to prevent it from coming down the ceiling and also to increase the slope.
    Thanks again!

    Fredrik

    Quote Originally Posted by ballengerb1
    Your slope needs to ba 1/4 "per foot, how long does the pipe run before catching the main drain line? Hope you aren't missing anything like a ring or some screws. You could have dislodged some debris when you broke the old connection but that should not come into play if you replaced everything all the way to the main drain. Short of any better answer try plunging while covering the overflow with a wet rag. Another home fix is mix equal parts 1/4 cup baking soda and 1/4 cup table salt and dump down the drain, the add a cup of vinegar and allow to sit over night. Try your bucket of very hot water in the morning, less than 62 seconds??
    letmetellu's Avatar
    letmetellu Posts: 3,151, Reputation: 317
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    #4

    Nov 6, 2007, 06:32 PM
    If you replaced all of the pipes except a short pipe before you get to the main drain I would think that the problem is in the short pipe that was not replaced.
    But there is another possibility, some drains that fit in the tub itself do not open enough to let the water out fast enough. Take the stopper out of the drain and see if it drains faster. If so then you need to adjust the stopper in some way.
    plumberjames83's Avatar
    plumberjames83 Posts: 99, Reputation: 5
    Junior Member
     
    #5

    Nov 6, 2007, 07:42 PM
    I would have to agree with letmetellu probably need to rent a pistol drill auger and "snake" the line or finish replaceing all of the 1.5"
    fcandreasson's Avatar
    fcandreasson Posts: 9, Reputation: 2
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    #6

    Nov 7, 2007, 09:56 AM
    Thanks.
    I actually took the stopper out completely, but it didn't change anything.
    Would this work for a pistol auger?
    Cobra Products 1/4" x 15' Plastic Drum Auger with Pistol Grip - 82150

    Would it be able to snake through the P-trap and all the bends?
    I guess I could buy or rent one to see if this solves it.
    Otherwise the entire section will have to be replaced. My only concern about this is that before I changed anything, it actually drained faster... even though some of the galv pipes that I removed were quite clogged with rust and debris.

    Thanks again for your advice!!
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #7

    Nov 7, 2007, 01:36 PM
    Would it be able to snake through the P-trap and all the bends?
    Yes, you remove the chrome face plate from the tub waste and overflow and snake through the opening.
    I hear a lot about the 1 1/2" drain, (I'd rather it be 2") but not one word about a vent. Does the tub make a gurgling sound through the tub waste and overflow when it drains. If so that's the reason it's draining so slow. Regards, Tom
    plumberjames83's Avatar
    plumberjames83 Posts: 99, Reputation: 5
    Junior Member
     
    #8

    Nov 7, 2007, 02:53 PM
    Yeah the vent may be out of distance or it may be cloged somehow
    fcandreasson's Avatar
    fcandreasson Posts: 9, Reputation: 2
    New Member
     
    #9

    Nov 7, 2007, 03:13 PM
    No gurgling sound.
    There is a 1 1/2 inch went, about a foot from the P-trap, and I don't think there is a clog in that. The vent is still the old Galvanized pipe, and it goes up through the attic to the roof. But again, it worked before I changed to ABS pipe. Should I snake the vent, and if so, do I need to do that from the roof?

    Thanks guys!
    plumberjames83's Avatar
    plumberjames83 Posts: 99, Reputation: 5
    Junior Member
     
    #10

    Nov 7, 2007, 03:29 PM
    Yeah try it from the roof and just keep on running it down the line something somewhere has this individuel line held up
    I have had them get trash stuck in the wye or tee where the "branch intervel" meets the "bluiding drain"
    plumberjames83's Avatar
    plumberjames83 Posts: 99, Reputation: 5
    Junior Member
     
    #11

    Nov 7, 2007, 03:36 PM
    1 thing that just crossed my mind is that if you changed the pipes originally because it was draining slow maybe just maybe there is a drum trap or something like that further down the line possiblie but unlikely but I thought I would throw it into the mix
    fcandreasson's Avatar
    fcandreasson Posts: 9, Reputation: 2
    New Member
     
    #12

    Nov 7, 2007, 03:45 PM
    The reason I changed the old galv pipes was because I added a sink, and while I was at it I thought I would replace the old pipe. It didn't drain particularly slow, but not great either. It is definitely much slower now. :(
    I actually didn't know what a drum trap is, but I just looked it up, and there is no such trap down the line. I can see the end of the pipe going into the main 4 inch stack about 5 ft away. I think my best bet will be to try to snake the entire line and also the vent.
    It would be interesting to know how quickly 5 gallons of water should drain in a tub... fun experiment. This tub took 62 seconds... pretty slow.

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