[icopus]

GREAT SITE! GREAT MEMBERS! Long time lurker, first time poster. I've searched but can't find -

I have read the following will dissolve lime and calcium;
CLR(tm)
Lime-a-way(tm)
Toilet bowl cleaner
vinegar

I'm willing to try all before shelling out $300+ for a new natural gas water heater.

So, what are the cons to using the above chemicals and products in an attempt to clear the mineral deposits in a gas water heater that may soon have to be replaced otherwise? :confused:
Just seems there should be some way, or they should make the heaters better serviceable.

Ooooo, had I known the previous owners hadn't properly maintained the heater... :mad:

Thanks for the advise.

[speedball1]

Try this first. For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by flushing on a regular schedule. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back togather the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps, Tom

[icopus]

My apologies, Tom. I should have stated what I have already tried.

I've already tried simply draining the tank. It can be done after I manually loosen the crud by poking a wire in the drain hole, but is really slow.

Once the tank is drained, I remove the drain valve and poke a metal dowel to loosen and remove as much of the calcium chunks I can. But, I can only get what is near the drain hole.

I can see there is much more that needs to be broken and removed. Would the afore mentioned products and chemicals, or anything else help in clearing/loosening the crud without harming anything?

As my dad used to say, "For crying out loud, they can send men to the moon, but they can't (fill in the blank)?"

Now I say, "They sent men to the moon 38 YEARS AGO and they still can't (fill in the blank)?"

Thanks for all the help.

[speedball1]

When you had the heater drained and the boiler drain removed did you pour some CRL or LimeAway or other mineral solvent into the bottom of the tank and let it work? You don't just drain a tank. You flush it using the incoming cold water as a agent. Draining just doesn't give you enough pressure. Good luck, Tom

[ballengerb1]

If you drained the tank per Tom's instructions you have pretty much done all you can do. Sounds like the tank is 10 years + but could you confirm the age? I have found heater to be like car batteries in the sense that whatever the warranty it will go out in a few months after the warranty expires.

[icopus]

Yes, a couple of years ago, I used about a pint of CLR, but I don't think I let it work long enough. Nor did I probably flush it enough with the incoming cold water.

Yes, I believe the tank to be about 10 or so years old. She still works fine with the exception of the available amount of hot water getting progressively less.

I'll be working on her this weekend and will perform your suggestions. In addition, I will also remove and check the anode which will surely indicate her age and condition.

With the anode removed,
1. I will use a gallon of CLR -
... a) Let it work for about an hour.
... b) Add some cold water (to get the sides), stir from the anode entrance and let it work for about 1/2 hour.
... c) Stir again and flush.
2. Repeat with a pint of Lime-a-way.
3. Then flush her really good with incoming cold water.

How's that sound to you guys? Again, thanks for the help.

[ballengerb1]

It should help but we are getting near to the point of putting lipstick on a pig. You may get a few more years out of it so give it a try. Normally at this age and all cruded up I replace. The anode is probably a stub by now so you'll be putting in a new one on a tank that is limited in life. Tom would know best though. Good luck.

[icopus]

UPDATE

It's funny how one simple job can open up so many others.

FIRST PART -
While preparing for the job, I turned the water off and on at the main. This popped a bad glue joint from a previous owner's repair job. Long story short, it looked too bad for me to tackle so a plumber was called.

So I told him of my intent. He emphatically stated NOT to use CLR or Lime-A-Way in the water heater stating this stuff will eat the heater's internal parts and, in addition, the copper and PVC piping after the heater within the house causing future leaks.

SECOND PART -
While he was there, I had him repair a VERY slow leak in the main in the attic. While descending the attic ladder, it broke. I now have to replace the attic ladder.

Anyway, I replaced the heater's dinky water drain valve with a straight 3/4" valve and flushed the heater with the water turned on. No chemicals were used. I had good pressure and some calcium powder did come out but not the chunks I saw in the heater.

We now seem to have a somewhat greater supply of hot water, but I fear this condition will not last long.

IS THERE ANY FEAR of CLR/Lime-A-Way eating copper and PVC pipes and water heater internal parts??

I thank you both for your responses, however, I've not felt this question was directly answered by anyone. I'm sorry.

[speedball1]

"I've not felt this question was directly answered by anyone."
What more do you want? We have posted directions on flushing out the heater. Bal has pointed out the heater is old and should be replaced. What more do you wish to know?

"So I told him of my intent. He emphatically stated NOT to use CLR or Lime-A-Way in the water heater stating this stuff will eat the heater's internal parts and, in addition, the copper and PVC piping after the heater within the house causing future leaks."

I have to disagree with your plumber. Since water heaters have been glass lined for years I doubt that CRL or Lime Away will eat anything up but mineral build up. As for eating up copper pipes the CRL will be flushed out of the tank long before it gets into your system. The plumber was trying to sell you a new heater wasn't he? Cheers, Tom

[iamgrowler]

IS THERE ANY FEAR of CLR/Lime-A-Way eating copper and PVC pipes and water heater internal parts??????

Most emphatically -- NO.

CLR is fine for use in your hot water tank.

[icopus]

"I've not felt this question was directly answered by anyone."
What more do you want? We have posted directions on flushing out the heater. Bal has pointed out the the heater is old and should be replaced. What more do you wish to know?

Hello, Tom.
I had already read your procedure on flushing a water heater. I've read and reread the responses and could not find a 'yea' or 'nay' to the question of using chemicals during the flushing process.

"So I told him of my intent. He emphatically stated NOT to use CLR or Lime-A-Way in the water heater stating this stuff will eat the heater's internal parts and, in addition, the copper and PVC piping after the heater within the house causing future leaks."

I have to disagree with your plumber. Since water heaters have been glass lined for years I doubt that CRL or Lime Away will eat anything up but mineral build up. As for eating up copper pipes the CRL will be flushed out of the tank long before it gets into your system. The plumber was trying to sell you a new heater wasn't he? Cheers, Tom

This response directly answers my original question and I thank you.
Yes, though not asked, he gave me a quote on a new installed water heater.
Again, I respectfully thank you.

Most emphatically -- NO.
CLR is fine for use in your hot water tank.

I thank you, too, for the confirmation.

[ballengerb1]

Based on Speedball1 and Iamgrowlers rec I'm going to ACE right away and get a jug of CLR.

[icopus]

As a follow up for future reference -
This past weekend, I used both Lime-a-Way and CLR in my water heater for the second year in a row with no adverse effects. After both times, the water is hotter and the hot water lasts longer.
It is my determination that the use of both products during the process of flushing the water heater is effective;
1. as an aid in clearing the heater of deposits;
2. increases the heater's efficiency of heating water;
3. lengthens the heater's lifespan;
4. and safe when done properly.

[Brian Vicars]

I have also used CLR or its Home Depot equivalent ZEP in my gas water heater for years. Caution though. CLR eats the anode rod, so remove the anode first.
One gallon will be enough to coat the bottom of the tank, which is where most of the calcium resides. Make sure the TP Valve is open to allow escape of CLR produced gases. Rinse well when finished.

[joypulv]

We usually ask people not to respond to posts this old, but in this situation, I think it's fine, and I'm glad to read what each of you has said.