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    nick_mathew's Avatar
    nick_mathew Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #1

    Feb 7, 2007, 04:00 AM
    Joining hub and spigot with no-hub cast iron pipe
    HELLO GUYS,
    I have a question I hope you could help me. I have an old piping, CAST IRON hub and spigot. It is installed underground with the bell portion protruding for insertion of the soil stack. I would like to use no-hub cast iron pipes for the upper part of my house. Can I easily insert the no-hub pipe into the bell of the hub and spigot pipe? Using same neoprene insert? Or I should have an adaptor, or special materials to do it. Please help. Thanks.:)
    gozanic's Avatar
    gozanic Posts: 6, Reputation: 4
    New Member
    		  
    #2

    Feb 7, 2007, 11:44 AM
    What has always worked best for me ( I've been in the remodeling business for 35 years ) is the neoprene adapter, it comes with a stainless steel sleave and clamps. It can only be used "no hub to no hub", so, if one pipe has a hub that hub will have to be cut off. This can be done with a "snap cutter" that can be rented or a saws- all with a large metal cutting blade works fine too.
    Hope this helps
    nick_mathew's Avatar
    nick_mathew Posts: 17, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #3

    Feb 7, 2007, 09:48 PM
    Yeah, I never thought 'bout that. That's the best solution there is.
    Thanks gozanic. You did a lot already.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
    Uber Member
    		  
    #4

    Feb 8, 2007, 05:04 AM
    I would wait and see what Tom says before I cut the bell off. I thing the no hub OD is the same as the non bell end and works fine in a bell.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
    Ultra Member
    		  
    #5

    Feb 10, 2007, 10:57 PM
    You have a couple of options here -- You can cut the hub off the old cast iron pipe and make the transition with a 'no-hub band', but this is hit and miss at best, different weights of hub and spigot pipe have been used throughout the years, and the outside diameter will likely be either bigger or smaller, more likely smaller, than today's no'hub cast iron pipe, which means the stainless band will be distorted upon tightening.

    Fernco 'tye-seals' are another option, but will require a great deal of brute force.

    If it were me, I'd use oakum and lead wool to make the transition.
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