[rhj88]

188,000 miles since new. Engine quits after running for some time. To start with the engine idle when cold is erratic until warm-up is complete. Aprox. 1200 - 1500 rpm,then is fine. While driving on a hot day engine will just quit, (Haven't had the car long enough to know what it does on cool days), Will restart after a few seconds. Just before engine quits speedometer gets erratic
And then engine stops and tach drops to zero quickly. I have replaced the distributor with a new one and have checked and re-soldered the main relay found cold solder on the 3 watt resistor but not the problem.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If your new distributor wasn't a genuine Honda, I suspect the Ignition Control Module is bad. I would ensure the ICM, coil, and main relay are new. These are the only explanations for the problem you are experiencing.

[rhj88]

[QUOTE=rhj88;1299288]188,000 miles since new. Engine quits after running for some time. To start with the engine idle when cold is erratic until warm-up is complete. Aprox. 1200 - 1500 rpm,then is fine. While driving on a hot day engine will just quit, (Haven't had the car long enough to know what it does on cool days), Will restart after a few seconds. Just before engine quits speedometer gets erratic
And then engine stops and tach drops to zero quickly. I have replaced the distributor with a new one and have checked and re-soldered the main relay found cold solder on the 3 watt resistor but not the problem.[/Q

[rhj88]

Since posting my problem I have further found that when the engine fails there is no malfunction light showing. Also during the failure the fuel pump relay opens in the main relay box... the other relay remains closed. Tried wiggling wires, relays, PC board and found that it appears the relay opens due to not receiving what ever signal that cause it to stay closed. After a few seconds simply turning the key off and restarting 1 to 3 attempts results in the engine running again.
The distributor I replaced is a new honda part
Do you still think it may be the ICM or could it be the ECM?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Ensure ICM is new:

. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Read link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523

. Perform K-Test on ECM--your latest description sounds like the problem may be ECM-related.

[rhj88]

Thanks for your help. I did the K-Test and found it to be aprox 5 volts. Of course the problem is this engine quitting is intermittent and possibly at the moment the engine dies the K-test may fail. Unfortunately it restarts rather quickly so nearly impossible to get out of the car and do the test before the problem goes away. I have checked all fuses as suggested in your post. Have also wiggled wires while running all to no avail... Inside the main relay the fuel relay opens and of course the engine quits. That is the only real evidence I can find at this time. I will try swapping out the ECM. Again thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Be sure to clean the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If you have approximately 5 volts, per the K-Test, the ECM is likely okay. However, try to perform the K-Test when the car stalls--there may be intermittent failure.

[rhj88]

Finally found the problem, for those who have been reading this blog. After the engine quit one day I noticed that while actuating the ignition switch to restart that the panel lights blinked a bit. Found after much fiddling that I could duplicate the engine quitting once running, by turning the ignition key ccw up to the point of resistance from further movement and have the engine simply quit without actually going further ccw. Changed the ignition switch and have had no further trouble. In inspecting the old switch I found the contact plating to be worn and greasy but not burned. Contacts were bad enough however to cause the engine to quit for seemingly no reason. Hope this helps someone. Rj