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TxGreaseMonkey · Feb 2, 2010, 10:19 AM

Good job. You should be in good shape for quite a while. Did you coat the back of the new ICM with heat transfer compound?

Start using your favorite SAE 5W-30 full-synthetic engine oil, changing oil and filter every 6,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.

kenhuth · Feb 2, 2010, 10:49 PM

Yes I put the compound on. The two screws that hold it on were a pain to get back on - almost took off the radiator hose to gain more room. Thanks again.

kenhuth · Feb 23, 2010, 06:07 PM

Hey, it's me again... having more problems. I think this time it's the crankshaft position sensor but wanted to check with you to make sure. So, I was driving along and all of sudden the check engine light came on and the car started to run rough. Also the tach was jumping up and down. I drove it to my parents house (about 3 miles) parked it and turned it back on - cel was off and ran smooth. The next day I tested it out... drove about 10 miles and cel came on and running rough again. The ecu did throw the code 4 which I read that that means the cks. Is this right and if so, where is it located on the engine and who would carry a replacement? I checked autozone and they don't carry it. So you don't have to look back - I have a '91 Honda Civic SI 1.6. One more thing, I noticed a sqeaking noise coming from inside the distributer cap - any idea what that can be. Thanks for your help.

TxGreaseMonkey · Feb 23, 2010, 06:14 PM

You need to replace the distributor housing (genuine Honda only). The bearings have worn out and, in the process, destroyed the Crankshaft Position Sensor. None of this is serviceable.

Install your new ICM, coil, rotor, and distributor cap on a new housing and you will be fine. Here's how to replace the distributor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

Remember, over 50% of new aftermarket distributors have not worked at AMHD. That's why you only want to go with a genuine Honda distributor housing.

kenhuth · Feb 23, 2010, 06:22 PM

Thanks so much, I'll do that. By the way, where is the crankshaft position sensor located... just for reference.

TxGreaseMonkey · Feb 23, 2010, 06:26 PM

It's one of the black sensors inside the distributor. The squeaking noise is likely the bad bearing.

kenhuth · Feb 23, 2010, 06:28 PM

OK, is that going to be part of the new distributor?

TxGreaseMonkey · Feb 23, 2010, 06:32 PM

Yes. The CKP, TDC, and CYP sensors, inside the distributor housing, are crucial. Aftermarket manufacturers, for some reason, can't get them right. Honda distributor housings tend to last 50,000 to 100,000 miles. Bearing and/or sensor failure are responsible for their demise. The bearings fail, once the oil in the grease goes.

kenhuth · Mar 3, 2010, 07:28 PM

I'm baaack. Ok, I got my new distributer today and installed it. Started it up and ran perfectly... for about 20 minutes. I let it idle for a few minutes, drove it up and down the road a few times, then went out to the main road, went about a mile and then suddenly stalled and won't start back up. No engine light came on. I was going about 40mph when it stalled. I was able to coast into a parking lot. I waited about 1/2 hr and tried to start it again and nothing... just cranks. I notice when cranking the battery light flickers. Any ideas this time?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 4, 2010, 06:33 AM

Did you install a genuine Honda distributor housing?

When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

kenhuth · Mar 4, 2010, 07:03 AM

I knew that you were going to ask me that. No, I didn'n get the genuine - cheapest I could find was $550 for whole or $280 for housing. I wanted to get all new inside and $550 is pobably more than the car is worth and I couldn't afford it. I got a whole new distributor for $150 made by AIP Electronics. I hope that's not the problem. I do know that the CEL comes on but not sure if it's 2 sec or longer. I believe it's 2 sec. I do hear the feul pump goning on when it's in position II.

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 4, 2010, 07:20 AM

Unfortunately, I believe the new distributor failed. I have seen this many times. You might be best served by going to your local salvage yard and picking up a used one for around $55.

kenhuth · Mar 4, 2010, 07:25 AM

Even if it was running for about 20 min. you think it failed? What would fail in it? Any way of testing?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 4, 2010, 07:33 AM

The problem is that one or more of the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, and CYP) fails. I don't know why it's so hard for aftermarket part manufacturers to get it right. The problem is never with the ICMs or coils. I've seen this happen hundreds of times. I don't know how to test the internal sensors. The problem may also be how they are adjusted (positioned).

If your CEL comes on and goes off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and you can hear the fuel pump run, then the problem is with your distributor.

kenhuth · Mar 4, 2010, 07:54 AM

Yeah, I can't see how these places can sell the parts if they don't work. I'll try to find one at the juck yard and try that. I think that is going to be my best way to find out if it's the distributor. Thanks for your help again, I'll let you know what happens. Just an afterthought... Is there any wires or connections that I can check - maybe something is loose or corroded?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 4, 2010, 07:58 AM

. Check the connections at the tower.

. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.

Confirm to me that the CEL comes on and goes off normally.

kenhuth · Mar 4, 2010, 08:00 AM

Sorry, what's the tower?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 4, 2010, 08:02 AM

Does the CEL come on and go off normally?

kenhuth · Mar 4, 2010, 08:05 AM

I believe it does, I can't check it right now - the car is still at the parking lot where I coasted in last night. I'll be going there soon to check it out.

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 4, 2010, 08:10 AM

Towers are where two or more major connectors are stacked together. Honda frequently uses this setup on distributor connections.