How can I lighten my skin?
There are several skin lightening products out there that claim to lighten your skin. They can baffle you with fictional science to blind you into buying their product. But remember, the only way to find out if it could be worth trying out is to check the ingredient list.
What are the ingredients I should be looking for?
Hydroquinone - Proven to be the most effective ingredient but also the most controversial.
Hydroquinone stops the skin from producing melanin (the substance responsible for skin colour). Basic over the counter skin lightening products have a mere 2% concentration of hydroquinone. Anything higher than that must be prescribed or available from a physician.
Hydroquinone has been linked to cancer, liver disease and other illnesses. Due to safety concerns, some countries have banned this ingredient.
Arbutin - Can be found in the leaves of several types of berry leaves (bearberry, mulberry, cranberry and blueberry) and also in many types of pears. It is known to contain Melanin-inhibiting properties although it is not yet known how much arbutin is required in a chemical formula in order to lighten skin. This is also a controversial ingredient as some fear this too has links to cancer like hydroquinone yet there have been no studies to prove its toxicity.
Kojic acid - A by-product of the fermentation process for the popular Japanese rice wine Sake. There has been extensive research carried out on the skin lightening properties of Kojic Acid and the signs are good. It has been shown that Kojic Acid is very good at inhibiting Melanin production in the skin. One drawback with this product is its instability within chemical formulae. Exposure to the sun or even air will make it turn a horrible brown colour and lose its effectiveness.
Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) – Japanese scientists discovered that the Liquorice plant contained a compound called Glabridin which when extracted from the root has very strong hyperpigmentation fading qualities. Glabridin works by restricting the oxidization activity of the melanin producing cells in the skin just as Kojic acid does. When used topically it is not toxic, does not discolour permanently and seems to be anti-inflammatory. Do not take orally as excessive intake may be toxic. Many people use this and claim it works for them, whilst many others claim it has little or no effect. As with all skin lightening products, results vary from person to person.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) – can be effective if used in conjunction with other skin lightening treatments as it has not been shown to lighten skin significantly on its own. The main reason for this is down to the manufacturers of skin lightening products using less than 5% strength Vitamin C. A small few tests have been carried out on stronger concentrations that show Vitamin C benefiting melanin production inhibition.
Tretinoin – is another treatment best used in conjunction with other treatments. Lots of research into the effects of Tretinoin has shown it has minimal effect on skin tone. Results improve drastically when used in conjunction with Sun block or Hydroquinone. I would avoid Hydroquinone and opt for Tretinoin with Sun block.
Azelaic Acid - is a fairly weak inhibitor of the oxidization in melanin producing skin cells that selectively targets overactive cells. It was originally used to treat acne and has also successfully treated postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. It is usually prescribed topically as a cream at about 20%. The effectiveness of 20% Azelaic Acid is very similar to that of 4% Hydroquinone when used to treat dark-skinned patients for facial hyperpigmentation. It can be used to very good effect with Sunscreen and/or Vitamin C.
Glycolic Acid – is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid, it is not used to specifically lighten skin as it has little or no skin lightening properties. However it is often incorporated into skin bleaching regimens as it exfoliates the skin cells clearing away dead top layer cells. If used alongside Azelaic acid, Hydroquinone or Kojic acid the theory goes that new lighter skin cells will replace the old darker top layer ones.