[mxteam]

Hi friends,

I have a concrete slab foundation. In one full bath, I'm changing out the tub to put in a sauna tub, going from 60x30 to 60x32. The toilet is right next to the tub, so I want to move the toilet over at least 4" and change the sink to a pedastal sink to make room for the move for both the toilet and tub. What do i need to do? Is this possilbe to do without major demolition or do i need to use a buster and open up around the flange and go down a foot, cut the pipe, throw on two 45's and make a new flange? Will that give me enough of a move? Is there a part to do this? I thought i heard somewhere of a part that allows someone to move the toilet to the side so many inches?

Also, i have a 1/2 bath. I demoed the floor and found the 4" black plastic pipe the toilet is connected to about 2 feet down. What I want to do is put a 60x34 shower pan and build in a shower stall. The opening in the floor is 2'x3'. Is this enough room to work in? Also, what do I use to tie into the 4" pipe? Is it a 4"x2"x4" tee and make all my pipe work 2" all the way to the middle of the shower pan? How do I tie into the pipe? With such short room, the pipe is ridgid. Do I use those rubber couplings with straps? What is the minimum length of pipe I need to tie into? Do I tie into the vent that the sink and toilet is using?

Please advise,

Robert

[speedball1]

Hey Robert,
(1) "The toilet is right next to the tub, so i want to move the toilet over at least 4". Is there a part to do this? I thought I heard somewhere of a part that allows someone to move the toilet to the side so many inches?"
Yes Robert there is. It's called a offset flange and Mesher makes a 4" one.
http://www.meshersupply.com/cascades/pdetail/1128085

(2) This one's a little more difficult. You will cut the 4" ABS as low as possible and tie a 4X4 x2" street tee into that pipe with a 4" No-Hub Clamp, ( see image). Ahead of , and downstream from the 2" trap for the shower you will roll a 2" wye up on a 45 degree angle and come off it with a vent that you may revent back into the lavatory vent. This will keep the toilet in place and the shower within code. Good luck. Tom

[mxteam]

Thanks on the toilet instaset closet flange, I don't see a picture so I'll need to wait to see one to know how to proceed. Is this a demolition job still? Is it a connect and reposition type of deal?

Also, I apologize for not being clear. I forgot to mention that the pipe I found to make the shower stall was the horizontal run, about 6 feet away from the toilet. I went through the concrete near where I think the shower pan drain will be and had a hunch it was running along the wall behind the toielt and sink and sure enough I got it. It's 4" so I'm assuming it's the toilet drain. Does this make the connection different? Also, how do I work up the pipe from the 4", do I use 45's ? Do I need a trap right under the drain of the shower pan? What type of drain do I use since I'm using an aftermarket pan, one of those thick plastic pans? Also, do I need a dap out for a shower drain? How far above the concrete do I need to make my drain, how far below the concrete is the trap if needed? Do I need to vent this or can it run from the drain to the 4"?

Thanks again,

Robert

[speedball1]

Robert, You will cut into the 4" line with a 4X4X2" street tee and run 2"over to the shower using 1/4" slope to the foot. Downstream from the 2" trap for the shower you will roll a 2" wye up on a 45 degree angle and come off it with a vent that you may revent back into the lavatory vent. From there you will place the trap and raiser directly under where you wish to position the drain and bring rhe 2" raiser up a few inches over the floor line. I don't know what a "aftermarket" is so please explain what type base your using so I can advise you on the drain. I'll put up a image of a ABS offset closet flange so you know what you're getting into. Some chipping of cememt will be required. Cheers, Tom