[skierRI]

After a day skiing (woo hoo! ) I turned the key and all sounded fine. Let go of the key (ie from start to run) and the car stopped. Tried a few times - strong when I was holding the key all the way to start, nothing as soon as I let go. The door locks popped open, no engine.

I had it towed a short way. The guys took apart the ignition, sprayed it and got the car running. Next morning it started. Started mid morning. I was driving home, on the highway, and again, the door locks popped open and the engine stopped! Luckily I'd planned for problems and was in the inside lane, still out in rural VT. I coasted to the breakdown, called AAA and ended up getting a 140 mile tow (ouch) home.

It's at the dealer (where I don't usually go, my guy is out of town). Has anyone heard of anything like this happening?

Thanks!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Sounds like the ignition switch is bad. Here's how to do it yourself:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
3. Disconnect 5-P connector from under-dash fuse box and 7-P connector from main wire harness.
4. Remove steering column covers.
5. Insert key and turn it to "0".
6. Remove two screws from switch and replace.

[skierRI]

Thanks, TXG! With luck there isn't anything else weird - I didn't mention that my tachometer and speedometer both flicked around before the car stopped, too.

I'm afraid this time it is going to have to be dealer fixed - I'm booked solid for the week and don't want to keep the rental car.

But this gives me something to go 'you think it's a WHAT?' when they call me! Any more thoughts, please keep passing them on!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If replacing the ignition switch doesn't solve the problem, test/replace the Ignition Control Module. Be sure the coat the back of the ICM with a thin, even coat of heat transfer silicone grease. If you head this route, I would replace the coil, rotor, and distributor cap, while you have the distributor open.