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JudyKayTee · Mar 5, 2008, 11:02 AM

I am remodeling my master bathroom which has ceramic tile about shoulder level throughout. I cannot decide whether to replace the tub/shower with one of those one piece units (Bath Fitter, if I'm allowed to post a specific name) OR whether to have the tub and shower replaced and the tile repaired, replaced and/or regrouted.

So far the cost appears about the same - the one piece would take one day, the whole area would take two - or so they say. The one piece is more expensive than I originally thought because I want the shower door replaced, not a shower curtain.

I asked the one piece estimator what happens if I ever want to replace (or repair) the faucets and he sort of shifted from foot to foot before assuring me it could be done - ?

Anyone have any experience or thoughts?

I have already ruled out reglazing the tub because my cousin had a horrendous experience involving his daughter, a dropped shampoo bottle and a whole lot of crying.

ballengerb1 · Mar 5, 2008, 12:29 PM

"I asked the one piece estimator what happens if I ever want to replace (or repair) the faucets and he sort of shifted from foot to foot before assuring me it could be done - ?" Don't worry about this since there is plenty of room for repair.A total replacement usually is not necessary since the cartridges are replaceable and a new look can be made to happen with a new escutcheon plate and handle. When folks are thinking about remodeling I always ask them if they actaully use the tub any more or just the shower. Many people have had me replace their tub with a 34x60 shower with large sliding doors. The doors run about $400 and the shower pan about $300 plus my labor costs.

JudyKayTee · Mar 5, 2008, 12:45 PM

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

"I asked the one piece estimator what happens if I ever want to replace (or repair) the faucets and he sort of shifted from foot to foot before assuring me it could be done - ?" Don't worry about this since there is plenty of room for repair.A total replacement usually is not necessary since the cartridges are replaceable and a new look can be made to happen with a new escutcheon plate and handle. When folks are thinking about remodeling I always ask them if they actaully use the tub any more or just the shower. Many people have had me replace their tub with a 34x60 shower with large sliding doors. The doors run about $400 and the shower pan about $300 plus my labor costs.

No, I do use the tub - unfortunately because your prices are a lot better than what I've been quoted!

ballengerb1 · Mar 5, 2008, 01:14 PM

I didn't tell you my pricing because I'm not doing your work. A very rough rule of thumb, very rough, double the cost of the material and you are in the ballpark of the finished product. I really want people to love the finished master bath so I try to point them towards totally new tile since its tough to make repaired/replaced tiles look perfect. It is very easy to get to the $6k range when replacing all bath fixtures. Decent toilets are about $160, vanity $400, sink $150 faucet $150, shower tub mixing valve $250 and so on. You still need to consider flooring and wall tiles, boy it addes up fast. NY is a bit out of my territory so I hope you get 3 good estimates to help you make a decision. Good luck, Bob

hkstroud · Mar 5, 2008, 09:29 PM

Could I ask a question about one piece tub units? If they are truly one piece, isn't it kind of hard getting them in the door.

JudyKayTee · Mar 6, 2008, 06:29 AM

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Could I ask a question about one piece tub units? If they are truly one piece, isn't it kind of hard getting them in the door.

I trust you are joking - in the event you are not they bring it in in sections and then assemble it in the house or, yes, they would have to build the house around it.

I believe it's called "seamless" because of the way it locks together.

hkstroud · Mar 6, 2008, 09:03 AM

OK, not very familiar with them. The only ones I seen were truly one piece and were only used in new construction. That's why I ask. I guess the correct term would be seamless not one piece.

Thanks.

ballengerb1 · Mar 6, 2008, 09:53 AM

Yep Harold, I know exactly what you were picturing. Not many builders use those big units anymore. They were heavy, had to sit at the job site until just the right time in framing and sometimes were stolen before the framer could box them in. Judy is looking a bit more upscale.

JudyKayTee · Mar 7, 2008, 06:30 AM

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

Yep Harold, I know exactly what you were picturing. Not many builders use those big units anymore. They were heavy, had to sit at the job site until just the right time in framing and sometimes were stolen before the framer could box them in. Judy is looking a bit more upscale.

Am I making a mistake by having this installed? Maybe I should reconsider the bathroom make over, replacing the tile and tub and not getting this unit?

It's called a "one piece seamless unit."

hkstroud · Mar 7, 2008, 11:53 AM

I don't think that anyone meant to imply that. I was just asking for information and the units that Balinger1 and I are referring were use in new construction and have probably fell into disuse due to improvements of the concept. The difficulty of possible plumbing repairs in the future will depend a lot on weather or not the valves are accessible from the other side of the wall. Granted tile wall can be repaired but you usually try to avoid that approach if at all possible. I guess there are some repair options for fiberglass walls but are limited. The advantage of fiber glass of course is the reduction of leaks and the cost. I guess I should just invent a "one piece seamless unit" that can have the head wall remove for repairs.

ballengerb1 · Mar 7, 2008, 03:53 PM

It all comes down to money, how much can you affrod to spend. Fiberglass units are lighter and cheaper than cast but they don't last as long and can scratch. A cast tub can 500 lbs and difficult to get into an existing space. I frequently advise people who are doing their own work but if you are having a pro do the work get 3 estimates for each method of type of tub and surround. Harold and I are probably best in telling you how to do something and we don't want to sound like we are dictating your taste or pocketbook.

JudyKayTee · Mar 7, 2008, 04:09 PM

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

It all comes down to money, how much can you affrod to spend. Fiberglass units are lighter and cheaper than cast but they don't last as long and can scratch. A cast tub can 500 lbs and difficult to get into an existing space. I frequently advise people who are doing their own work but if you are having a pro do the work get 3 estimates for each method of type of tub and surround. Harold and I are probably best in telling you how to do something and we don't want to sound like we are dictating your taste or pocketbook.

Both quotes for the one piece Bathfitter type of thing were in the $3,900 plus change range but I am getting the upgraded tub and a shower door instead of a shower curtain - and a soap dish. I was OK with the whole thing until the $89 charge for a soap dish. For that money I should by a soap on a rope, sling it around my neck and save $89 (give or take).

The carpenter came today and gave me an estimate of $6,000 for replacing vanity, sink, toilet, tub, floor because he would have to bring the tub/shower up to plumbing code (which apparently changed 2 years ago and I, of course, had the new faucets put on 4 years ago!) and that doesn't hae to be done if I go with the insert. I had the new floor put in 4 years ago but it would have to be cut (or something) to accommodate a new tub. I believe him and he also came highly recommended.

The carpenter also said it would take him 3 or 4 days, at leat two of which I would be without a bathtub.

This whole process is difficult for me - this is something my husband and I had planned for Spring but he died Christmas Day so I'm really without an anchor here. I'm also always afraid someone will try to take advantage when it's a subject I know little about.

Thanks for the updated advice -

hkstroud · Mar 7, 2008, 10:38 PM

First I would like to extend my condolences on you loss.

On the $89 soap dish. One would think that retailers would recognize that they are shooting themselves in the foot with this practice. I guess the figure you won't be back any way. Of course you can always say, throw in the soap dish or I walk. Be prepared to walk if you don't get it, because they are better at bluffing than you. You should know if the installer is an employee or an independent contractor. Almost all of this type of contract has a "normal and usual installation" clause. That's a hole big enough to drive a tractor trailer through. Before allowing any work to start get confirmation that the job will be completed for the agreed price. If the contractor claims unknown conditions or factors, find out "how much if you find that". You don't want him to be in a position of coming back half way through the job and charging you a $1000 to replace a piece of plywood. If you think I'm kidding read the thread
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/constr...es-191673.html

Wheather or not the $6000 is reasonable depends on labor rates in your area and the cost of the new fixtures. You should know exactly what fixtures are being installed and have some concept of their cost. You should educate yourself on toilets. With the 1.6 gallon flush there is a lot of controversy.

Does the $6000 include retiling?

JudyKayTee · Mar 8, 2008, 09:08 AM

Originally Posted by hkstroud

First I would like to extend my condolences on you loss.

On the $89 soap dish. One would think that retailers would recognize that they are shooting themselves in the foot with this practice. I guess the figure you won't be back any way. Of course you can always say, throw in the soap dish or I walk. Be prepared to walk if you don't get it, because they are better at bluffing than you. You should know if the installer is an employee or an independent contractor. Almost all of this type of contract has a "normal and usual installation" clause. That's a hole big enough to drive a tractor trailer through. Before allowing any work to start get confirmation that the job will be completed for the agreed price. If the contractor claims unknown conditions or factors, find out "how much if you find that". You don't want him to be in a position of coming back half way through the job and charging you a $1000 to replace a piece of plywood. If you think I'm kidding read the thread
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/constr...es-191673.html

Wheather or not the $6000 is reasonable depends on labor rates in your area and the cost of the new fixtures. You should know exactly what fixtures are being installed and have some concept of their cost. You should educate yourself on toilets. With the 1.6 gallon flush there is a lot of controversy.

Does the $6000 include retiling?

Right - it's the total figure. The proposed contract is pretty thorough but, of course, I would have an Attorney run through it first before signing. I'm a stickler on proof of insurance and that type of thing. No subcontractor; owner and partner do all the work by terms of the contract. He also does not recommend the low flush toilets.

(Thank you for your condolences - it's been rough and I don't see things getting easier for quite a while.)