[harrycornbread]

My plumber roughed in my toilets for a new concrete slab where the concrete would be poured over them. He covered them up with cardboard and duck tape. He came out and tapped on where he though they were and told me he was done. I have hammered where he said about 2 inches and it took forever. I have no idea if what I'm doing is right. Or if I can call out another plumber and see if he will know what to do, or how hard it should be to knock out the holes on my own. Any info would be greatly appreciated guys

[Stratmando]

If a Hammer doesn't expose location, I would drill 3 Inch deep holes with a 1/4" masonry drill bit. If you drill in wrong spot, 1/4" not tough to deal with, Tile?

[harrycornbread]

Im afraid that it might be closer to 4 inches deep, because my shower drain is about 5 inches deep. The concrete guy said he did me a super slab

[Stratmando]

I didn't want you to drill through, If 5" is a safe depth, go for that.
You may be able to push a magnet from drain side, and locate with a compass.
Several methods from Pushing tape and listening, to electronic location.
He should be able to give accurate distance from the wall and maybe the side, draw a line parallel with that. Drill every 4"?
If all else, Call Him for distances first. He knows better than anyone.

[massplumber2008]

Harry if you drill five inches and don't find pipe... something is wrong.

Superslab or not the finished pipe with cardboard and duct tape and all... should be within 1/2" to 1.5" or so of concrete (toilet flange should set on top of finished floor). What kind of pipe is this?

Start where Stratmando suggested.. drill down and see if you find a clearing in cement.. when you find the void your drill will drop through and into drain line unobstructed.

A typical toilet drain line is about 12 inches off back wall studs and a minimum of 15 inches to center from left wall by where toilet should be.

Try this a few times... get back to us... should not be too difficult?? I hope.

[Flying Blue Eagle]

Harrycornbread, stratmando - MassPlumber2008 is right on the measurements and the flange should set on top of finished concrete.The sewer drain should be up higher then the old plumber has it set, the plumbing is done wrong and the old plumber knows it ,that is probley why he told cornbread that he was done and left Cornbread you should call the old plumber back and tell him to fix it righteven if he has to cut out concrete do the repairs and then re pour with concrete and if he won't you will have another plumber to do it and he will have to pay for it or you will see him in court.. . What I want to know is how you bare going to get a couppling on the pipe down in the concrete to be able to get the pipe high enough to be able to set the flange correctly?? GOOD LUCK AND GOD BLESS ,I hope this gives you some Ideas of what you'er in for ::F.B.E.

[Stratmando]

I have seen plumbers cover over for inspection, then owner may want to add toilet later.
I believe they bury a coupling at the end, that way it is easy to deal with in the future.

[Flying Blue Eagle]

Stratmando - I have covered also for future but it was left where all you had to do was tap it wiyh something and had a piece inside of pipe to keeb anything from going down the pipe you didn't want to . Also aon a concrete slab we brought the pipe up the right higth put the special foam, in pipe and tighten in place , it was made just like a toilet flange ,put duct tape over it good ,let extend over the edges and wrapped around and under the flange top , after concvrete was set or when we were ready to we'd terar off tape and remove the foam piece, they worked really good . I HOPE THAT THEY PUT A COUPPLING ON THE END OF MAINSEWER LINE < IM AFRED THAT HE IS GOING TO BE PRETY MAD AT HIS FIRST PLUMBER> HAVE A GOODD DAY KEEP THAT JET GLIDER IN BETWEEN THE CLOUDS > GOD BLESS :::F.B.E.