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poopstar · Dec 30, 2007, 02:02 PM

Hi,

My 93 civic hatch died on me the other day while driving. It pretty much felt like I had run out of gas, even though I had a half tank left. So I got it towed to my house, and performed the little paper clip diagnostic test, and when I did, the check engine light came on and stayed on. When I take the paper clip out, the check engine light comes on for two seconds, the I hear a click and it goes off.

So it seems like I'm getting error code 0, which means bad ecu.

What could be the problem. I'm a complete noob so step-by-step instructions please.

Thanks a lot

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 30, 2007, 02:15 PM

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. If the K-Test indicates the ECM is bad, here's how to replace the ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

Buy a remanufactured ECM for around $260, with a lifetime warranty, from O'Reilly Auto Parts. On E-Bay they go for around $120. Honda wants around $1,000, with a 1-year warranty.

poopstar · Dec 30, 2007, 03:07 PM

Where do I locate the map sensor?

TxGreaseMonkey · Dec 30, 2007, 03:15 PM

Normally, it's to the right of the fuel filter, along the firewall.

poopstar · Jan 2, 2008, 08:31 PM

Is it on the passenger side, or driver?
I don't know where the fuel filter is.

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 3, 2008, 06:06 AM

Passenger side, just to the right of the battery. Look for the long wire and connector going to the MAP Sensor. The MAP Sensor, also, has a vacuum hose going into it.

poopstar · Jan 3, 2008, 02:55 PM

K I just tried the k test, and it IS getting 5 v... what could the problem be... any specific fuses I should check?

poopstar · Jan 3, 2008, 03:04 PM

Wait... first I want to know if I did it right:
I found the map snsor, unplugged the connector.. put the multimeter red wire in the right socket (+) of the map sensor, and the black wire from the multimeter to a bolt on my car.
It read 5 v

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 3, 2008, 05:40 PM

You did the K-Test properly and your ECM should be okay.

. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Test for spark.

. Test the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil, which is inside the distributor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

AutoZone can do this for free.

. Replace fuel filter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224689

The odds are that the problems resides in the distributor; e.g. a bad ICM or coil. If you plan on keeping the car, I would also replace the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs, and spark plug wires.

poopstar · Jan 3, 2008, 07:22 PM

I just need something to make it run again. And I want to sell it as soon as its functioning again. Any cheap way of doing this. The thing is, I don't think there's an autozone here. I'm in Toronto. Also, the car is not starting and its in my driveway, so to take it to a shop, ill have to get it towed, which costs $$$...

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 3, 2008, 07:36 PM

Test the ICM and coil, using the procedures below:

. ICM (ignitor) Test. Characteristics of a bad igniter are no spark (dead engine) or fluctuating rpm.
1. Remove distributor cap, rotor, and leak cover.
2. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM. If there is voltage, go to step 4.
4. Turn ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no battery voltage, check the ignition coil and the WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM. If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
7. If all test are normal, replace the ICM.

. Coil Test.
1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.
2. Measure resistance (ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not with specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

poopstar · Jan 4, 2008, 05:47 AM

Before I check those two things... could the problem be the fuel filter? If so, how do I check this?

poopstar · Jan 4, 2008, 12:31 PM

Also... before that... wats an easy way to test for spark?

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 4, 2008, 12:33 PM

Read Section B in the Sticky.

poopstar · Jan 4, 2008, 11:20 PM

K so when I take out the spark plug boot from the engine, I notice that it has oil on it. Is this normal?

JDMostwanted · Jan 6, 2008, 09:37 PM

Hey poopstar.. I have the same issue with my civic it doesn't start my check engine light keeps coming on and doesn't turn off after 2 seconds car cranks but doesn't turn over... but my question how did you do that paper clip thing with the ecu.. I also need to know how to read the codes I know 0 means bad ecu or something like that but isn't there like a manually somewhere in this forum how to check ecu? Please help thanks

TxGreaseMonkey · Jan 6, 2008, 09:42 PM

JDMostwanted, perform the K-Test on your ECM.

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

poopstar · Jan 8, 2008, 02:12 PM

Txgreasemonkey,
So my no 2 spark plug has oil on it.. not sure abot the others yet.. I ahvent taken them out yet, but am waiting to get the tools to do so. But I've shone a light in there and seen that no2 spark plug is basically drenched I think.
So do you think this is what the problem is, and are the symptoms I had (car dying while driving, and cranking but not starting) normal for this problem.
Please give me any advice you can, again step-by-step.
Thanks a lot you've already helped me so much.