[bredin01]

I have had trouble with rust forming around the bottom of my white porcelain sink where the drain plate is from the old pop-up assembly. I am about to replace it. Would it be best to use a chrome-plated plastic one now or a brass one to keep rust from forming again?

[speedball1]

I have had trouble with rust forming around the bottom of my white porcelain sink where the drain plate is from the old pop-up assembly. I am about to replace it. Would it be best to use a chrome-plated plastic one now or a brass one to keep rust from forming again?

A chrome pop-up assembly is chrome over a brass body. Since the chrome surface can flake off the plastic in time I would Use the chrome over brass one. Good luck, Tom

[bredin01]

Which one is less likely to produce the rust effect around it over time?

[speedball1]

Which one is less likely to produce the rust effect around it over time?

Neither one! Brass, plastic and chrome don't rust. You get rust from well water with a high iron oxide content or from the hot water in a water heater that has been poorly maintained. You do flush your heater out on a regular schedule don't you? No? Then let me show you how.
For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by flushing on a regular schedule. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back togather the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps, Tom

[bredin01]

How do I connect the tailpiece to the next pipe down? There doesn't appear to be any threads to tighten it in to the next piece.

[speedball1]

How do I connect the tailpiece to the next pipe down? There doesn't appear to be any threads to tighten it in to the next piece.

The tail piece connects to the trap raiser through a compression fitting. Good luck, Tom

[bredin01]

What is a compression fitting and trap raiser?

[iamgrowler]

Which one is less likely to produce the rust effect around it over time?

Neither and both.

If your sink is enameled steel, then the rust is likely migrating under the enamel from the stamped edge of the drain hole.

Generally, when this happens, replacement of the sink (with a vitreous china or enameled cast iron one) is your best and only option.

[bredin01]

The sink is porcelain.

[bredin01]

What is a compression fitting and trap raiser?

[ballengerb1]

OK you have two real plumbers helping you here and I think they are both offline now. The compression fitting is the big nut on the drain pipe below the sink. That nut is fitted on one pipe and can't slide off, it threads onto the next part of the trap and there is a fairly thick plastic ring or washer that is catured under the nut. That's the compression fitting. The trap riser is the verticle part of the pipe before the big bend that makes the trap.

[bredin01]

What is a compression fitting and trap raiser?

[bredin01]

I still don't understand how to connect the tailpiece to the trap raiser pipe. There is no threads and the "compression fitting" does not hold them together securely for me. Do you have any graphics to assist?

[speedball1]

What is a compression fitting and trap raiser?

A trap raiser is the pipe that sticks up from the trap that a fixture drain connects to.
A compression fitting, (see image) is a fitting that uses a nut and a gasket that compresses against the pipe when tightened. This forms a watertight joint and connection.

the "compression fitting" does not hold them together securely for me.

Not knowing the size of the trap and raiser is making me have to guess. Perhaps you have a 2" raiser and compression nut with a 2" or 1 1/2" plastic gasket. This is the wrong gasket. You need a 2 X 1 1/4"gasket for that compression nut. That will make the connection between trap raiser and lavatory pop-up. To help you morfe I need the size of the trap raiser and the size of the compressiuon gasket. Back to you, Tom

[bredin01]

Please see the attached photos of the project. You can see the tailpiece which has no threads. That is what I'm trying to figure out, how to secure it to the next pipe down which then threads in to the J pipe.

[bredin01]

Looks like the photos are too large. Do you have an email address that I can send them to?

[speedball1]

Go back and read my post. A compression fitting connects the unthreaded tailpiece to the trap raiser. What part of this gives you a problem? There is no other way. Regards, Tom

[bredin01]

I don't understand the compression fitting. Is it just a nut with a plastic washer? The pipes are 1 and 1/4" in diameter. If I could send you a photo of what I have perhaps then you could help me better.

[speedball1]

I don't understand the compression fitting. Is it just a nut with a plastic washer? The pipes are 1 and 1/4" in diameter. If I could send you a photo of what I have perhaps then you could help me better.

Nah! Let me send YOU a picture. Why are we having so much trouble on such a simple operation? What confuses you? The gasket? If you have a 1 1/2" trap, raiser and compression fitting with a 1 1/2" gasket that is too loose on your 1 1/4" tailpiece simply get a 1 1/2 X 1 1/4" gasket to put in the compression fitting and the job's done. One more time. You have a pop-up drain with a unthreaded tailpiece, (see image) you prime and glue a compression fitting ,(see image) on the trap raiser and simply connect the two. If the gasket's too loose then get one the fits both the nut and the tailpiece. Regards and good luck, Tom

[bredin01]

I used the one that came in the packaging but it does not feel snug enough.